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Penny Arcade

5.9, Trad, Alpine, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.3 from 6 votes
FA: FFA: Bitter, Carruthers, Carruthers, 1982
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Lone Peak Cirque > Flying Buttress

Description

All I really recall was the first pitch stemming dihedral was really nice, and takes a bunch of small but solid stoppers. Makes a nice "bonus route" when you're wiped out from the hike in, or on your second morning in the cirque, when the idea of starting a climb in the shade seems unappealing.Morning sun!!!

Pitch 1. Follow the rather thin corner system up to a ledge.

Pitch 2. Continue up the corner for 40' then traverse right and continue up the face to an offwidth which can be climbed up to another ledge.

Pitch 3. Continue up the corner system again to the top.

Descent: Walk off North/west to desend back into the Cirque. Don't try to rappel the Flying Butress.

Of historical note: Merril Bitter and party did just the first pitch before bailing due to an afternoon storm. Dan Baker and Allen Sanderson did the first recorded ascent in 1988. Others may have preceeded both parties as a pin was found high on the first pitch.

Protection

First pitch: plenty of small wires!!! Otherwise, standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Flying Buttress 2003
[Hide Photo] Flying Buttress 2003

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Allen Sanderson
On the road to perdition
 
[Hide Comment] A bit more on this route:

Pitch 1. Follow the rather thin corner system up to a ledge.

Pitch 2. Continue up the corner for 40' then traverse right and continue up the face to an offwidth which can be climbed up to another ledge.

Pitch 3. Continue up the corner system again to the top.

Of historical note: Merril Bitter and party did just the first pitch before bailing due to an afternoon storm. Dan Baker and I did the first recorded ascent in 1988. Others may have preceeded both parties as a pin was found high on the first pitch. Jul 6, 2007
Mark Michaels
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Don't try to rappel the Flying Butress.

Walk off north, then curve around west. It's a nice stroll. Apr 27, 2012
Tom Barber
Colorado Springs
[Hide Comment] @LoganSLC, That is the beta for mosaic wall route Jun 3, 2018