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The Serpent [Edit]
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British A3
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Peeler Face
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Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R |
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Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13 |
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Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hell Broke Luce T A2+ |
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Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peeler Direct C2 |
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Riveting C0 |
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Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3 |
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Skin Man T A3 |
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Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Tin Man T A3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Drew Bedford, Kurt Fashanpaur: 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,040 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Jan 9, 2003 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: On private land.
Details
The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storageperpetualstorage.com/index_….
Be respectful of private property.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description [Edit]
P1: Traverse to a thin seam. Climb straight up to Black Peeler. Traverse right on Black Peeler to belay at a two-bolt station.
P2: Traverse left and up a wide crack/flake (5.11a R). Belay at a two-bolt station.
This is a variation pitch to the Black Peeler. Downclimb the ramp from the Peeler Direct first pitch belay. Swing out the roof via bolts, then stretch for a placement. Climb the corner up to another ramp, then traverse to the second pitch anchor of the Peeler Direct. Make sure to protect the second when you leave the crack and free climb to the 2nd pitch anchor. Fun pitch, and a great, harder alternative to the Peeler Direct splitter.
P2: Traverse left and up a wide crack/flake (5.11a R). Belay at a two-bolt station.
This is a variation pitch to the Black Peeler. Downclimb the ramp from the Peeler Direct first pitch belay. Swing out the roof via bolts, then stretch for a placement. Climb the corner up to another ramp, then traverse to the second pitch anchor of the Peeler Direct. Make sure to protect the second when you leave the crack and free climb to the 2nd pitch anchor. Fun pitch, and a great, harder alternative to the Peeler Direct splitter.
Protection [Edit]
Aid Rating 5.7, A3
Aid Rack: I recommend 2 hooks, 10 heads, 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 64 carabiners & 16 runners (24").
In general, thin to medium pitons. Bring some mashies along, in the event that a fixed one pulls. Regular aid rack otherwise.
Free Rack: I recommend 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners, 16 runners (24") & 2 brass testicles.
Aid Rack: I recommend 2 hooks, 10 heads, 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 64 carabiners & 16 runners (24").
In general, thin to medium pitons. Bring some mashies along, in the event that a fixed one pulls. Regular aid rack otherwise.
Free Rack: I recommend 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners, 16 runners (24") & 2 brass testicles.
Photos
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Wasatch Back, UT
SLC, UT