Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Drew Bedford, Kurt Fashanpaur: 1988
Page Views: 1,749 total · 7/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jan 9, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route

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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


P1: Traverse to a thin seam. Climb straight up to Black Peeler. Traverse right on Black Peeler to belay at a two-bolt station.
P2: Traverse left and up a wide crack/flake (5.11a R). Belay at a two-bolt station.

This is a variation pitch to the Black Peeler. Downclimb the ramp from the Peeler Direct first pitch belay. Swing out the roof via bolts, then stretch for a placement. Climb the corner up to another ramp, then traverse to the second pitch anchor of the Peeler Direct. Make sure to protect the second when you leave the crack and free climb to the 2nd pitch anchor. Fun pitch, and a great, harder alternative to the Peeler Direct splitter.


Approach from Black Peeler or Riveting.


One 160' rappel from the final two-bolt station.


Aid Rating 5.7, A3

Aid Rack: I recommend 2 hooks, 10 heads, 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 64 carabiners & 16 runners (24").

In general, thin to medium pitons. Bring some mashies along, in the event that a fixed one pulls. Regular aid rack otherwise.

Free Rack: I recommend 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners, 16 runners (24") & 2 brass testicles.


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