PRINT: Rock Climb Dark of the Moon, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Dark of the Moon

5.10c, Sport, 150 ft (45 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 43 votes
FA: Scott Keller, Chris Begue 1995
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Black Peeler Bu… > S Face

Access Issue: On private land. Details

The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….

Be respectful of private property.

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Dark of the Moon climbs the east-most, nicely bolted route from the base of the last pitch of Western Grebe. Solid slabbing, probably one of the best on the Peelers.

Protection

8 draws for the route, and a small piece or two for the beginning. Two 60 meter ropes or one 70 for the rappel.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View from the belay of Kyle cruising up this awesome line.

Does it get more quintessential LCC than this?

Nate Layton coming off in the winter sunset. Dark of the Moon climbs up lookers left of this rope.

This marks to spot where you head up to the first bolt. This climb is beautifully bolted.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tenesmus

Just did Western Grebe to Fools Paradise to what I thought was Dark of the Moon. I've heard the topo in the Ruckman guide mislabeles it and it felt that way. It's a hard area to draw a topo for - with all the broken ledges. Don't know about the grade either. It seemed about right, but the pitches to get to it seemed soft. This was the best route we did, and I'd imagine one of the best on the Peeler. Kudos to Scott and Chris for putting in lots of bolts. I assume it was done on lead.

This puts it at 8 bolts long with lots of long runners to keep drag down. Oct 1, 2005

tenesmus

This route was put up by Scott Keller and Chris Begue and is the best protected 5.10 slab in the canyon. If it were in Green A it would be done every day it was dry and not scorching hot. Jun 11, 2006

triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT

5.10c

What an experience to do this climb in the Light of the Moon. The knobs and chickenheads are amazing.

Don't worry, the second bolt is up there...

Classic LCC slabbin! Oct 25, 2007

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT

5.10c

Easily one of the best slabs in the canyon. Steep, well bolted, killer setting.
One 70m rope will barely make it down to the belay ledge. Watch the ends...
To get off do a 2 ropes rap to the top of the 2nd pitch of Western Grebbe (straight down fool's paradise) then another one to the base.

Edit: now goes with single 70m raps. Sep 4, 2008

Crag Turkey
Liberty Wells, UT

Never climbed little cottonwood 10c slab clean until this route, likely due to the awesome chicken heads and reasonable bolts. lots of respect for the bolting effort on this, very well thought out. the position, chicken heads, lack of people and overall quality make this one of my favorite slab routes in the canyon. Usually slab pitches can feel like a means to an end, but this is totally worth the approach. May 31, 2017

Greyson
SLC, UT

5.10c

What an amazing slab, very well bolted by little cottonwood standards which makes it a great intro to 5.10 slab. With 80 meter cord, we linked the first two pitches of Western Grebe then proceeded to link Fool's Paradise into Dark of the Moon. Rope drag wasn't too bad so long as you strategically use double length slings and skip a bolt here and there. If confident at the grade bring two double length slings, 12 alpine draws along with a couple more long quick draws. Gear wise, all you need is a small set of cams (.1 to .5 BD) and a set of nuts. Oct 23, 2017

Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut

This is an awesome slab! Go climb this! Oct 27, 2017

Ronan Carrier
Salt Lake City, UT

Moving from one chickenhead to the next was fun, but the best part of the route is by the fourth bolt when the chickenheads disappear and you have to make thin slab moves to the next bolt. Definitely engaging. May 23, 2021