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Routes in South Summit Wall

Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Expanding Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gardner's Delight , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inner Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: 1959, Spencer brothers
Page Views: 78 total, 0/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Jul 3, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route follows the left side of the rectangular formation extending out from the south summit wall. Ascend the dihedral, using a combination of crack, layback, and face climbing to reach the top of the formation, then follow the face east of the formation to the summit. The first pitch is quite short, and you can actually combine the first two pitches using a 60m rope. If you opt for this, when you come to the selection of slings, etc., that indicate the first belay on a small ledge, continue on until you reach the large sandy ledge. Set up a trad belay here (be sure to use a cordalette!) with some dispersed protection in the small seams and cracks. The second pitch is quite fun, and has some runout face climbing near the top. As you reach the top of the "thumb" formation, climb out onto the top of the actual formation to reach a two-bolt belay. From this belay, traverse across a good ledge (poor pro) to the flake system north of the "thumb" formation. Place your pro and then start ascending these flakes and cracks to the top of the south summit. This is a LONG pitch, and I almost ran out of rope with my 60m rope. This pitch is also predominantly large pro. From the top, head south down the slope towards the ramp that leads to Question Mark Wall for the descent. Rap from the obvious rap station at the pine trees. Overall, this route is worth doing if you're in the Cirque, and have already done the other classics, or if you want a good route on the "thumb" with a more moderate rating. Don't come all the way up here just for this route though. The best "Thumb" route is Center Thumb (albeit far more exposed, and a bit more difficult), and there are a number of far better climbs on the North Summit and Question Mark Wall.

Protection

I used everything from a #4 camalot to small nuts

Photos

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