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Sun Dog

5.7, Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 144 votes
FA: Willet, Nakada '96
Utah > Northeast Utah > Uinta Mountains > Ruth Lake > Good Medicine Area
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

Short fun route. This is on the far right hand side of the Good Medicine Wall, next to Fire Water. This route is hidden around a corner when viewing it from below, and starts from a big ledge.

4 bolts through steep juggy rock leads up to an anchor. I think it is possible to scramble around to the right to setup a toprope as well.

Protection

4 bolts. 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paige at the 2nd to last bolt
[Hide Photo] Paige at the 2nd to last bolt
Aura on Sun Dog on a smoky day September 14th 2018 with the smoke from the Pole Creek and Bald Mountain fires in Utah County.
[Hide Photo] Aura on Sun Dog on a smoky day September 14th 2018 with the smoke from the Pole Creek and Bald Mountain fires in Utah County.
Enjoying the Sun Dog views
[Hide Photo] Enjoying the Sun Dog views
starting ledge
[Hide Photo] starting ledge
Mike leading Sun Dog. This was his second time climbing and first lead ever. He's staying to the right in the broken rock that makes this climb a lot easier.
[Hide Photo] Mike leading Sun Dog. This was his second time climbing and first lead ever. He's staying to the right in the broken rock that makes this climb a lot easier.
Maddi top roping Sun Dog. Amazing view
[Hide Photo] Maddi top roping Sun Dog. Amazing view
Sun Dog on the right, Fire Water on the left
[Hide Photo] Sun Dog on the right, Fire Water on the left
Me on Sun Dog.
[Hide Photo] Me on Sun Dog.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Gitlin
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] My climbing partner and I actually found some of the moves on this route to be more difficult than it's neighbor Peace Treaty, which is rated 5.9. The hanging, flagging finish move reminded me of something you'd do in the gym -- very cool. Aug 21, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] I found this climb to be the same or easier than its 5.7 neighbor. I guess everyone's mileage varies. Aug 21, 2004
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.6
[Hide Comment] How can this be 5.8? The smallest foothold is slightly smaller than a deck of cards, and every handhold is a massive jug. Sep 21, 2010
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] The only 5.8 part of this climb for me were the last few moves directly below the anchor. The rest is easy 5.7 climbing. Fire Water, the 5.7 to the left, seemed harder. Jul 5, 2012
Dan Spirgen
orem, ut
 
[Hide Comment] if you stay left on the face it goes 5.8- and easier than the 5.7 to the left of it. If you head right after the first couple bolts into the crack/broken rock its significantly easier. Jun 25, 2013
Gub
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This route is far easier than the ".7" to its left. It may be harder if you stay left of the bolt line, but the way it is bolted made me feel like I should climb more right, which I found to be more like 5.6 climbing. Jul 25, 2014
C.M.Jones
South Jordan, UT
  5.7
[Hide Comment] What a fun, easy climb. A little bit easy for a 5.7, especially since it's much easier than it's neighbor. But the small traverse at the start and the juggy corner is great for beginners and good, easy fun. The tricky finish tripped my friend up, that's why I still stand by 5.7. Sep 5, 2016
Chris Stocking
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] The approach to the belay on this is suffering from some very bad soil erosion. Would be a great candidate from some trail improvement, especially considering how popular it is. Kind of a pity to see it in this state when everything else up to it is so incredibly well developed. Sep 18, 2020