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Space Lord

5.12c, Sport, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 76 votes
FA: Bill Boyle
Utah > Maple Canyon > Right Fork > Minimum Crag

Description

A brilliant route that is one of the longest lines at the Minimum, and one of the best lines on the wall. It climbs the line of bolts between 49 and Just Put It In. The variation in grades is based on whether you climb straight up the bolts (12d) or whether you take a reverse "S" path wandering left towards 49 then right towards JPII. Terrific climbing in either case.

Protection

14 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

d-know
electric lady land
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] this one's a gimme 12d. I like the minimum crag, the routes take the minimum amount of effort for the grade. Jan 28, 2006
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
[Hide Comment] It's definately not a gimmie if you're 5 foot tall and you stick to the bolt line. Since I'm too much of a weenie to go way off left into 49 (I hate being too far to the side of the bolts), I use the little crimpers and it feels 12d. Jun 27, 2006
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely the best line I got on at maple, although I only sampled a few. Great movement and sequences throughout the whole climb, with a few bolts giving it a more distinct crux than many of the other routes I tried. I found the line to have a natural 'S' shape to it, although I don't remember pulling on any holds on 49. However you choose to climb it this route offers great moves for days, if your into that kind of thing. A must do on a return trip. Jun 2, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I think this is the best "real" 12c at Maple. It feels like an odyssey, it just goes on and on. Sep 7, 2009