PRINT: Rock Climb New Toy, City of Rocks

New Toy

5.10a X, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 111 votes
FA: Jay Goodwin 1982
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Super Hits - Bloody F…

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

This is the face below the anchors on Bloody Fingers. There are only 4 bolts on the route, and you have to pull the crux moves before the first bolt. A small wire might be had in the left leaning crack, before the first bolt.

There is ground fall pontential when clipping the first 3 bolts, so this is a better TR than lead. Follow fun face/knobs climbing to the anchors on Bloody Fingers.

Protection

draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1) Bloody Fingers<br>
2) New Toy<br>
3) Twist and Crawl

1) Bloody Fingers 2) New Toy 3) Twist and Crawl

Bloody Fingers area w/o lines.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nathan Fisher
West Bountiful

5.10b

I counted five bolts, but that doesn't change the danger rating as what Guy said was correct, in the groundfall potential. A great long face route with some cool friction moves and the odd body postion move. We did it on TR, while waiting for Bloody Fingers to open up...it never did and I ran out of time on this trip. Damn!!!!! Sep 5, 2005

Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY

5.10a R

I led this route a few years ago, and I'm not sure I'd give it an X rating. I'm not usually that bold. I think solid R. Dec 4, 2006

Wayne Harney
Bend, OR

Agreed, definitly not X rated. Maybe R. The runouts would be average at Tuolumne or J Tree. Awesome route! May 9, 2007

Steven Lucarelli
Izola, SI

5.10a R

The crux in my opinion is after the first bolt making this route pretty safe and you would have to try pretty hard to fall off anywhere else. I think an R is reasonable but there is a chance of an X fall if you pitched off in the right spot.

You could say that about most routes though if you came off clipping the second bolt or piece of gear.

There are 4 bolts. Aug 15, 2010

Blitzo

Fun route. Aug 23, 2010

GRK	[Hide Comment] i see your point, but i really hope new toy remains in its current condition. its an exciting lead that tests your mental limits. Jun 18, 2013

RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID

Great old route. A Goodwin masterpiece. Crux is just above the first bolt. If you repetitively fall off this move, I would seriously consider not continuing on. If you flash this section, the rest of the unprotected climbing will be fine. It's good to have some old routes still around that you aspire to build up to with confidence. Aug 9, 2014

Jay Goodwin
OR-NV-CA-ID-WY

I agree with the comments by RKM and Lucarelli. Route is old school and bold, but crux is protected from ground fall, and if you can onsite the crux, the runouts present only a mental challenge, not a technical one. Climb runs more or less straight from bolt to bolt. Meander all over between bolts to find easier climbing (I have seen people do this) and you risk ground falls (until you clip the third bolt) and serious injury.

Alternate direct start is up the thin flake that you can also use for an alternate start to Bloody Fingers. Takes a few very small wires or RPs, which are basically wishful thinking - they will almost certainly rip if you fall on them. Oct 2, 2017

abe r
Boise, ID

5.10b PG13

Not an X IMO and easier than the the 10a R to its left! May 21, 2018

Salamanizer Ski
Off the Grid…

5.10b X

Definitely ground fall potential clipping the second bolt. Crux is above first bolt and would be a nasty fall. Jul 17, 2022

Double J
Sandy, UT

I only counted 3 bolts. Did 2 get the chop? Currently it is a LONG way from the 1st to the 2nd. Sep 23, 2024