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Routes in Super Hits - Bloody Fingers

Bloody Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Double Vision T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mystery Achievement S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Toy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Twist and Crawl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jay Goodwin
Page Views: 1,829 total, 10/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 22, 2003
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This is the face below the anchors on Bloody Fingers. There are only 4 bolts on the route, and you have to pull the crux moves before the first bolt. A small wire might be had in the left leaning crack, before the first bolt.

There is ground fall pontential when clipping the first 3 bolts, so this is a better TR than lead. Follow fun face/knobs climbing to the anchors on Blood Fingers.

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I agree with the comments by RKM and Lucarelli. Route is old school and bold, but crux is protected from ground fall, and if you can onsite the crux, the runouts present only a mental challenge, not a technical one. Climb runs more or less straight from bolt to bolt. Meander all over between bolts to find easier climbing (I have seen people do this) and you risk ground falls (until you clip the third bolt) and serious injury.

Alternate direct start is up the thin flake that you can also use for an alternate start to Bloody Fingers. Takes a few very small wires or RPs, which are basically wishful thinking - they will almost certainly rip if you fall on them. Oct 2, 2017
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
Great old route. A Goodwin masterpiece. Crux is just above the first bolt. If you repetitively fall off this move, I would seriously consider not continuing on. If you flash this section, the rest of the unprotected climbing will be fine. It's good to have some old routes still around that you aspire to build up to with confidence. Aug 9, 2014
grk10vq    
i see your point, but i really hope new toy remains in its current condition. its an exciting lead that tests your mental limits. Jun 18, 2013
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Fun route. Aug 23, 2010
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10a R
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10a R
The crux in my opinion is after the first bolt making this route pretty safe and you would have to try pretty hard to fall off anywhere else. I think an R is reasonable but there is a chance of an X fall if you pitched off in the right spot.

You could say that about most routes though if you came off clipping the second bolt or piece of gear.

There are 4 bolts. Aug 15, 2010
Agreed, definitly not X rated. Maybe R. The runouts would be average at Tuolumne or J Tree. Awesome route! May 9, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10a R
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10a R
I led this route a few years ago, and I'm not sure I'd give it an X rating. I'm not usually that bold. I think solid R. Dec 4, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10b
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10b
I counted five bolts, but that doesn't change the danger rating as what Guy said was correct, in the groundfall potential. A great long face route with some cool friction moves and the odd body postion move. We did it on TR, while waiting for Bloody Fingers to open up...it never did and I ran out of time on this trip. Damn!!!!! Sep 5, 2005