Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Reid Dowdle 1986
Page Views: 1,564 total · 8/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

41 Opinions

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This is the first sport climb to the left of Bloody Fingers. There is ground fall potential reaching the 3 bolt, so be careful.

That being said, this is a very fun route. It starts out with some thin moves, before reaching a quartz dike. The upper route can either follow the dike or the slab to the left. The well spaced bolts will lead you to a trad anchor on a ledge (there is now a bolted anchor at the top). Rap off of the anchors on top of Bloody Fingers.




Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
This ain't no "sport" climb....

I think Reid climbed this in '86. Then...me. Yee haa! Oct 4, 2009
Seemed like there was a tiny nut placement in there somewhere. I led it before I had such equipment, so it was a little hairy to say the least. Oct 4, 2009
Not great, but good. Aug 23, 2010
Russell Fogle
Boise, ID
  5.10b R
Russell Fogle   Boise, ID
  5.10b R
Typical delicate granite slab climbing. Scary fall potential. Small dish on top near the edge that you can brace your feet in for a belay, the addition of anchors would make this route a bit more enjoyable. Oct 19, 2013
"the addition of anchors would make this route a bit more enjoyable."

Bullshit. Much more interesting to build an anchor. Oct 20, 2013
Jack Lazar
Portland, OR
Jack Lazar   Portland, OR
As of two days ago, this route definitely had bolted anchors. Also, I'd argue that the ≈ 1 foot wide quartz dike running straight up the wall, just to the right of the bolt line, greatly increases the route's aesthetic value and the overall experience. If you're looking for something to climb that's in the range of Bloody Fingers, you should at the very least drop a rope on this grippy bad boy if you don't feel comfortable leading it. 60 meters will serve you fine. Jun 28, 2014
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a PG13
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a PG13
Fun route. The hardest (10a) moves are well protected. There are some delicate 5.9 moves way above your last bolt however. Oct 5, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Some scary fall potential, yes, but scary is different than dangerous.
If you blew a clip you could hit the ground with an inattentive belayer, but the climbing is protected better than that and PG is fair, but 'R' is really overstating it. Jun 16, 2016
abe r
Boise, ID
abe r   Boise, ID
I thought this was hands down harder and more sustained than its neighbor New Toy (which got a 10b in Bingham...) May 21, 2018
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
Thoughtful climbing. I couldn't find any gear placements, but the bolts seemed adequate...but just so. Aug 27, 2018
Hardest, scariest route on the wall, in my opinion. Leading this climb always took more mental preparation than any other route here, at least for me. And the dikes it follows are super cool. Great route, Reid. Nov 10, 2018