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Routes in Elephant Rock - North

Beware of Nesting Egos T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Just Say Go T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prepare for Soaring Seagulls T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Strawberry Jam T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where Egos Sore T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Stan Caldwell, Dan Sperlock
Page Views: 2,009 total, 12/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 15, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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55 Opinions

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Description

This route is located on the North side of Elephant rock. It ascends the left line of bolts on the large flake. There are three bolts on the lower wall and 2 bolts at the beginning of the upper section. The lower wall has a 5.10 b/c crux at the 2 bolt. The 5.10d crux is a crimpy affair at the second bolt on the upper headwall. Good nut placements and cams in horizontals protect the final section (5.10b). There is a technical crux right before you pull onto the belay ledge.

Fun stuff...

Protection

Draws, nuts, and a few medium sized cams

Photos

Replaced original hardware in 2017 with cooperation between the nps, local climbers alliance and ASCA. Consider a donation today at safeclimbing.org Oct 23, 2017
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
An excellent route. Going right at the second horizontal crack and dynoing to the top for the final move makes this climb way better. place a couple pieces and just jump for it. Jul 17, 2011
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
 
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
 
the straight up top out is awesome yet probably harder than 10d. Jun 20, 2010
Ben Folsom  
 
I agree with the previous comment. Nice route, good rock and well protected. Nice colors on the rock too. Jul 10, 2008
Frosty Weller
Colorado
 
Frosty Weller   Colorado
 
Not sure why this doesn't deserve 3 stars. I thought it was quality rock, cool features, appropriate bolt placements, and had good movement. Jul 2, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10d
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10d
An OK route. You end up with some rope drag which is... a drag, but still fun. I ended up moving left at the final horizontal, as did another leader I watched. I suppose it could go straight up at the end, but the best protection is towards the left side of the horizontal (#1 Camalot), so it just seemed more natural to move left at the end. No doubt it would be harder going straight. The midway crux felt fair at 10d, and the bottom section definitely involved some surprisingly challenging slab climbing. It is probably a good idea to be comfortable at the grade, as a fall at the wrong moment might drop you on the big ledge...

Gear: Medium nut, Aliens, #1 Camalot. Jul 30, 2006