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Loch Ness Monster

5.11, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 188 votes
FA: R. Hong, M. Lightner, Fish, 1988
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Bath Rock > Bath Rock - West
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

The obvious sport climb up the rib/roof. Some gear is useful to get to the first bolt. Follow the rib on the left side and traverse below the roof. A few desperate slaps will set you up for pulling the bulge. A hard traverse leads back left. Get a rest and fire up the technical and pumpy finish.

Protection

draw, optional gear

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Perplexing footwork on this one...<br>
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Pic by [[grk]]105810566
[Hide Photo] Perplexing footwork on this one... Pic by grk
Henry Faust at the chains of Loch Ness Monster, 11b (yellow). Green line to the right is Gemini, 12a (very high 1st bolts on both climbs).
[Hide Photo] Henry Faust at the chains of Loch Ness Monster, 11b (yellow). Green line to the right is Gemini, 12a (very high 1st bolts on both climbs).
Loch Ness, 2012
[Hide Photo] Loch Ness, 2012
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] "Get a rest and fire up the technical and pumpy finish" - sweet knee lock no hands rest. Sep 7, 2012
GWB
 
[Hide Comment] This would be a tricky on-sight but easy once you know the movement. Sep 1, 2014
Kat A
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb. Bingham's guide indicates this is on the "elephant's trunk" - indeed, if you look at it with the right perspective, you can see the resemblance. :) Sep 3, 2015
Nate Liles
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] Replaced anchor w 1/2" ss + mussy hooks in 2019. In cooperation with the NPS, Climbing Resource Advisory Group (CRAG) and the ASCA. Support from Maxim Ropes and the Access Fund, all hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org Sep 10, 2019
Jack Moe
SLC, UT
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Would recommend bringing at least a .5 to protect the beginning of the climb. Jul 17, 2023
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] My 2 cents on getting to the first bolt: It's really easy and you can clip from the ledge casually. The .5 is so low it's irrelevant. If anything a fatty #4 a bit higher works well. As for the climb, it's pretty sick, I would have given 4 stars but since the real climbing doesn't begin until the top of the pillar, I think the quality is 3 stars. 17 hours ago