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Terror of Tiny Town
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 180
votes
Routes in Buzzard Perch
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Age is just a letter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Body God S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fat Lip S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Ghetto Blaster AKA Straight out of the Ghetto T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Laceration T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Summit Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Terror of Tiny Town T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Totally redeem yourself! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 42.08525, -113.72139 |
| FA: | Bingham |
| Page Views: | 17,624 total · 67/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jun 17, 2004 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is one of the top three 5.11 trad climbs at the City. The name is very fitting. The crux is protected by a #2 Lowe ball. Gear larger than 1/4 inch is not had until way after the crux.
Start by face climbing past a bolt. (Stick clip?) Fire in some small bomber nuts, and stand up on the small ledge. Place you #2 ballnut which can be backed up with a #2 RP a little lower. A #.2 Camalot can be placed right after the crux lieback moves. Thin pro, tough placements, and pumpy moves lead to a rest ledge. Mid 5.10 moves lead through a finger crack and small roof. Rap 90ft from a 2 bolt anchor.
Try not too have too much terror in tiny town.
Photos
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