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Hough's Crack

5.7, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 142 votes
FA: Dave Hough '80s
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Bloody Fingers Corridor
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

On the North side of the Lower Breadloaf are two obvious 5.7 cracks. Hough's is the right of the two (the other is called Intruding Dike). Climb up the crack with an awkward bulge move, then wander left up higher to a handcrack. Top this out, and set a gear anchor.

To descend, walkoff climber’s right (northwest) down the 3rd class ramp and do a short 5.5 downclimb move OR a very short rappel using the new station midway down the ramp. Some climbers choose to scramble up higher on the formation to descend from the anchors of Mystery Achievement (5.7) or Bloody Fingers (5.10a).

Protection

Standard Rack from small up to hand size.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Intruding Dike and Hough's Crack on Lower Breadloaf
[Hide Photo] Intruding Dike and Hough's Crack on Lower Breadloaf
Dave Poxon follows up Hough's Crack (September 2020)
[Hide Photo] Dave Poxon follows up Hough's Crack (September 2020)
Jeff Purdy on Hough's crack (September 2020)
[Hide Photo] Jeff Purdy on Hough's crack (September 2020)
A great climb!
[Hide Photo] A great climb!
Beta photo showing most of the route.
[Hide Photo] Beta photo showing most of the route.
Start of Hough's Crack; the right crack is the route.
[Hide Photo] Start of Hough's Crack; the right crack is the route.
Con on Hough's Crack
[Hide Photo] Con on Hough's Crack
Peter leading Hough's Crack at City of Rocks
[Hide Photo] Peter leading Hough's Crack at City of Rocks

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This is a decent climb, but mostly easy climbing with a couple of tricky crux moves. Not as good as its neighbor Intruding Dike. Aug 17, 2004
John J. Glime
Cottonwood Heights, UT
[Hide Comment] In the photo below, Peter is climbing off to the left. When I climbed this, I chose the crack to the right in topping out. I am not sure which crack is "on route", however, I felt like the climbing never got beyond 5.6. However, it is really fun moves. The whole climb is short and sweet. Perhaps the crux 5.7 is above where Peter headed? Sep 11, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The crux for us was definitely the upper crack on the left. Sep 12, 2005
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
[Hide Comment] I wouldn't recommend descending this by rapping off of the super-popular Bloody Fingers... Is this what most people do?! Can't say I've ever done it (or seen it done). After bringing up your second, head down the 4th class chimney to the north (climber's right). Aug 14, 2011
Ryan Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The crux was definitely the last bit of down-climbing to get back to the ground...haha. Seriously, I freaked out more with the downclimb then the actual climb! This climb was actually really enjoyable though. Worth doing if Intruding Dike is busy. Jun 3, 2013
Chris Doobtrain
Sandy, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] My first trad lead! Sep 8, 2013
sclair
SLC, Ut
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Descend down the chimney, then I exited off the face with giant holds to get to the boulder on the ground. For me the crux was the first bulge. Apr 24, 2017
Tyler S
SLC
  5.7
[Hide Comment] There is a lichen covered face above the "trench" with a killer finger crack that gets you to the top of the formation. I highly recommend finishing this way. Aug 29, 2019
Tod Gunter
Hailey, ID
[Hide Comment] New Rap anchors are on the ramp to the right before the final downclimb. Still need to set your own belay anchors though. Sep 15, 2019
Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I think this route is cool. Granted, I guess I didn't climb it "right." I exited right into the right leaning crack - seemed like the obvious line to reduce drag. Took great pro and had a mini run out to the finish.

Maybe one day I'll head left as MP suggests, but probably not. Though fun, I'll likely never tie into this guy again, it's no Intruding Dike! Nov 29, 2021