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Routes in Bloody Fingers Corridor
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Breezeway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Featured Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hough's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Intruding Dike T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Dave Hough '80s |
| Page Views: | 3,337 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Jun 5, 2004 |
| Admins: | GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
On the North side of the Lower Breadloaf are two obvious 5.7 cracks. Hough's is the right of the two (the other is called Intruding Dike). Climb up the crack with an awkward bulge move, then wander left up higher to a handcrack. Top this out, and set a gear anchor.
To descend, wander up the formation, then look on the east side of the formation for a one rope rappel (60m rope). This is on top of Bloody Fingers (thin 5.10a crack).
To descend, wander up the formation, then look on the east side of the formation for a one rope rappel (60m rope). This is on top of Bloody Fingers (thin 5.10a crack).
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