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Routes in Bloody Fingers Corridor

Breezeway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Featured Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hough's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intruding Dike T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Hough '80s
Page Views: 1,903 total, 12/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 5, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Description

On the North side of the Lower Breadloaf are two obvious 5.7 cracks. Hough's is the right of the two (the other is called Intruding Dike). Climb up the crack with an awkward bulge move, then wander left up higher to a handcrack. Top this out, and set a gear anchor.

To descend, wander up the formation, then look on the east side of the formation for a one rope rappel (60m rope). This is on top of Bloody Fingers (thin 5.10a crack).

Protection

Standard Rack from small up to hand size.
sclair
SLC, Ut
  5.7
sclair   SLC, Ut
  5.7
Descend down the chimney, then I exited off the face with giant holds to get to the boulder on the ground. For me the crux was the first bulge. Apr 24, 2017
Chris Doobtrain
Sandy, Utah
 
Chris Doobtrain   Sandy, Utah
 
My first trad lead! Sep 8, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.7
The crux was definitely the last bit of down-climbing to get back to the ground...haha. Seriously, I freaked out more with the downclimb then the actual climb! This climb was actually really enjoyable though. Worth doing if Intruding Dike is busy. Jun 3, 2013
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
I wouldn't recommend descending this by rapping off of the super-popular Bloody Fingers... Is this what most people do?! Can't say I've ever done it (or seen it done). After bringing up your second, head down the 4th class chimney to the north (climber's right). Aug 14, 2011
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.7
The crux for us was definitely the upper crack on the left. Sep 12, 2005
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
In the photo below, Peter is climbing off to the left. When I climbed this, I chose the crack to the right in topping out. I am not sure which crack is "on route", however, I felt like the climbing never got beyond 5.6. However, it is really fun moves. The whole climb is short and sweet. Perhaps the crux 5.7 is above where Peter headed? Sep 11, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.7
This is a decent climb, but mostly easy climbing with a couple of tricky crux moves. Not as good as its neighbor Intruding Dike. Aug 17, 2004