Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Goodwin, Steve Johnson '80s
Page Views: 8,310 total · 47/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 4, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

This route has many unique moves and is stout for the grade. The start is just to the right of the 3-bolt line, Nipples & Clits (5.8).

Jam and stem up two steep shallow cracks. This looks difficult to protect, but takes a #2 and #3 camalot quite well. Easier terrain up higher leads to a rightward traverse to a thin crack system. Follow this finger crack to the top with a few tough moves along the way.

Rappel with a 60m rope from either the anchors on Sex, Drugs, Rock & Roll (just to the right), or walk to the anchors near Carol's Crack.

Protection

Standard Rack - TCU up to a #3 camalot

Photos

Greg Lowe and friends did 3-4 hundred routes at COR in the 60's and 70's. This route was nearly certainly one of them. Jay Goodwin give it the name "Preteen Sex". I'm no prude, but this is a dumb name and it's going in the guidebook as yet another "Lowe Route". Oct 19, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Climbed the first bit as a diversion and traversed to the chains atop the sport routes. Certainly worth doing in the neighborhood. The part I did protected well (be sure to look in the right crack for pro as well) and had engaging climbing. Jun 27, 2018