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Lost Arrow

5.7 R, Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.7 from 372 votes
FA: Lowe, Brown
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Lost Arrow Spire
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

AKA: Classic Route.

Pitch 1: Start on the north face of Lost Arrow Spire on a flake traverse that reaches a vertical crack with the original Lowe piton in it. Clip it, enjoy the nostalgia, and stem or jam your way on up. After the crack ends, clip the bolt and work through the highly pocketed face to the exciting and well protected hand traverse. The crux seems to be the tail end of this traverse. Attain the ledge and belay.

Pitch 2: works left off the ledge. Protect before you make the leftward move over the arete as there is NO protection beyond it. It is 5.5 only. Caveat: If you do protect it the rope drag will kill you. Choose your poison.

Protection

Lost Arrow has 1 bolt and 4 pitons on the 1st pitch. Otherwise a standard rack will work. Bring some runners also.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Get down from there!<br>
<br>
May 2013<br>
Photo by Duc
[Hide Photo] Get down from there! May 2013 Photo by Duc
Looking down at pitch one
[Hide Photo] Looking down at pitch one
This is what the start looks like.
[Hide Photo] This is what the start looks like.
THE Lost Arrow Spire.
[Hide Photo] THE Lost Arrow Spire.
The rap.
[Hide Photo] The rap.
Sitting on the top as my wife comes up the last slab section.  Lunch time:)
[Hide Photo] Sitting on the top as my wife comes up the last slab section. Lunch time:)
Lost Arrow rap. from the ground looking up.
[Hide Photo] Lost Arrow rap. from the ground looking up.
Dean, Fred, Rick and Gary enjoying the summit
[Hide Photo] Dean, Fred, Rick and Gary enjoying the summit
Second pitch belay with my Pops.
[Hide Photo] Second pitch belay with my Pops.
Pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1.
Something to be said for climbing classics on a Monday
[Hide Photo] Something to be said for climbing classics on a Monday
A look down from pitch 2
[Hide Photo] A look down from pitch 2

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] what about the rappel?that is the most fun scary part Aug 2, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Good point Christina, 1 60 meter rope will get you down, but recommend that you use 2, as 1 rope forces you to hit the ledge on the left and downclimb. Also, it is a rather hairy drop off into a free rap. Aug 2, 2004
John J. Glime
Cottonwood Heights, UT
5.7
[Hide Comment] Great climb, in regards to the very severe rating, I think this is terribly misleading to any would be ascentionists. The route description above states that during the second pitch when you cross over the arete and onto the east face that there is no protection. Actually there is a perfect #2 camalot crack that splits that face and diagonals up towards the summit. You can easily place as much gear as you would like in this beautiful crack, and as long as you use shoulder length runners, the rope drag is not a problem in the least. At the end of this crack, there is about 15 feet of unprotected climbing to reach the summit plateau, however, by that point I would say the climbing is in the 5.4 to 5.5 range. No problem, if you have already led the exciting first pitch. My point is to say that do not fear this climb because of the very severe rating. It is a great climb that is very protectable until the last 15 feet and the last 15 feet are easy. Aug 19, 2005
[Hide Comment] Gotta agree here. Though the move around the corner is very airy, (you can get some small nuts here, but they'll ptobably fall out once you are around the corner:-)...the climbing once on teh face is easy, huge, City Style dishes. If you are freaking out, you can go left and get some gear. I lead this as a total beginning leader, and though it is runout...it would take a cannonball in the chest to blow you off those dishes. VS is misleading....R is fine. Besides...the real scariest part is lowering your ass over the edge to rap!! have fun! Sep 27, 2005
Tea
[Hide Comment] Agree with AC's comments....the 5.5 is R if you go straight up, but huge and positive. R....not X. Besides you can place a few small nuts at the edge, equalize/runner well a la gogarth....your in there! Heads up for lightning on those afternoon ascents...had a VERY close call here once....with the only cloud for 20 miles. weird. Mar 18, 2006
[Hide Comment] Amazingly cool/improbable route, a great summit, and a wild rappel.

There is an alternate start about 50 feet right of the described start that travels up and left on a low-angle ramp, then steps around the corner and heads into the dihedral at the second pin. This can be protected with wires and aliens and I like it better -- stepping around the corner here is wild. In the photo (#3) of pitch one, you can see this ramp straight right of the climber -- it turns the corner onto the face where the climber is, and then joins the right-facing corner just above where he is.

Also, this is easily led in one pitch if gear is runnered well. Jul 4, 2006
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] Totally fun with a swell rappel. Oct 24, 2006
Iain Morris
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] There's a lot of iron up there. You could almost pull it off with a set of slings!

The top out leaves you totally satisfied. Jul 30, 2007
mkm
Boise, ID
[Hide Comment] Great route. Not really a true "R" rating. On the second pitch, after turning the corner you can protect the crack with a larger cam (#2-3 camalot), and if you use a long sling (60cm or more) the rope drag is not a big issue. A couple moves after this it leans in to easy 4th class. Jan 12, 2010
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Just a second to the fact that the second pitch is completely and easily protectable until the last 20 ft or so, and by then if you have made it this far feels like a walk up. there is a crack a few feet left of the ridge line that takes mid size bomber cams. Jul 17, 2010
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] If you want to up the grade a little do it in the winter when all the jugs are filled with ice. Probably doesn't get dry till early/mid may. Apr 26, 2011
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.7 R
[Hide Comment] A single 70 meter rope gets you all the way down with 10 feet to spare. No need to bring two 60's. Also, the first pitch just needs small things, nuts and cams #.75 and smaller. I used a #1, a #2 and #3 to build anchor at the belay ledge.

If you use really long runners on the first part, before the bolt, it will reduce the rope drag. I clipped the bolt, but I didn't use a long enough runner and I suffered for it belaying from above. Jun 14, 2012
wasatch-mtn-man
  5.7 R
[Hide Comment] What in the world?! This climb is so much fun I can't believe it. I followed pitch 1 and thought a few moves were harder than 5.7 but was probably just the exposure just before the short vertical crack to the belay ledge.

Pitch two is lots of fun on a wind-gust kind of day! I placed an opposed nut before going around the corner which is exciting to say the least. Opted for one #3 C4 in the diagonal crack before heading up. Rope drag was not unreasonable. If I took that cannonball to the chest as per above, I at least wanted something protecting my tarzan-swing out on the face. The climbing really isn't hard at the point however. Just exposed and exciting. What a top-out! The rap is sweet. Jun 15, 2012
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
 
[Hide Comment] Worth the hike for the solitude. No anchors at the belay station, so bring some #0.5-#2 cams to build. Plenty of room. The second pitch is airy and fun, especially if you don't pull onto the stab and want to make the route a little more adventurous (read: dangerous). Room at the top for a picnic. 70m rope from the chain anchors on top would have gotten us to the ground, but we had two ropes anyways. Jun 25, 2012
Nate Flink
Minneapolis, MN
 
[Hide Comment] I found the runout at the top a little freaky, but it's all solid. You can hold onto large jugs on the lip. Rapped with a 70m to ground from the top. Amazing rock quality and interesting moves. Must do! Sep 27, 2012
[Hide Comment] Barely got down with 1 60m, with no downclimbing. Go rappeller's left toward the tree. But you can also go right to a stack of rocks. May 12, 2013
Ryan Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] If you cruise the first pitch. The 2nd pitch is nothing! Way less stressful IMO. And the 2nd pitch does actually protect well if you stay in hand-crack. Not sure if that's considered the real route though... Jun 3, 2013
Riley Polvorosa
Arcata, CA
 
[Hide Comment] there is no real need to place any pro on the first pitch there are a few bomber pitons and a bolt. a 60 m rope makes the rappel, barely. make sure to bring plenty of slings, esp for getting situated before the rap. the second pitch is super fun, its a "jug-arete" Aug 17, 2013
[Hide Comment] Re the second pitch: go pretty much straight left from the belay stance. This is juggy; you'd have to try really hard to fall off it. Ease left around the corner onto a flatiron-like face, but with the lovely crack mentioned earlier. Runout at the top is casual. Summit is five stars on a scale of three; bring some good munch material and hang out for the view. Feb 15, 2014
S.Lee
 
[Hide Comment] Thought it was a fun route. Going from standing on top to getting situated at the anchors to rappel is kind of sketchy. Mar 1, 2015
[Hide Comment] I must have missed the first piton because I did not see any protection until the first bolt. placed a #3 cam just to calm my nerves. 2nd pitch seemed much easier than the 1st Oct 28, 2015
zach cook
Boise, ID
[Hide Comment] YOu can do this in a single pitch, major rope drag if clipping the first bolt and piton, or extend majorly. 70m gets you down. Jun 26, 2016
GilaShot
Western Antarctic, New Engl…
 
[Hide Comment] Pitch one will be scary for 5.7 leaders. I felt like there were a few committing 5.8 moves, and placing gear to back up the 50 year old pitons on the ramp was a bit awkward. Pitch two was easy but I think a fall could potentially pull the rope over the sharp patina edge of the route. Great fun, but way more adventurous than other local routes of the same grade. Aug 23, 2016
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] 5.7G
5.5PG
5.3R

This was one of my favorite and most memorable climbs at the City, don't miss it. You should extend just about every piece on this. If you aren't prepared to do that, don't climb this. As everyone is saying, there is plenty of pro on pitch 2, you just need to extend (120cm slings are ideal).

I did the rappel with one 60m rope by having my second go down on a single strand, then had her connect 2x 240cm slings to the rope with locking carabiners and clipped them onto her belay loop. I then counterbalance rappelled down on the opposite strand. Perfect! I think it could have probably been done without the extension if we both swung the rappel over to the left onto a ledge - but it seemed close and a little tricky and I was happy to give myself a little margin of safety. Sep 6, 2017
Claire Bootsma
Portland
 
[Hide Comment] Start Beta: you can clearly see the first piton from the start of the route (~20 ft up). If you're looking at the first bolt ( ~80ft up) but can't see the piton move up higher and climbers R around the base of the spire. I accidentally started up Dying for Exposure 5.8 X and wasn't able to place any pro in the super wide crack until I got to that first bolt, scary mistake. I didn't place any pro on the second pitch, it seemed easier to just climb to the anchors than move L to protect the off route crack. Rapped with a 70m and got down no problem. This was my second outing leading trad, very fun, just wish I had spent a little more time and found the correct line for the first pitch. Used BD C4 cams for P1 anchor: two #2, one #1 Sep 20, 2019
Landon McDowell
Saint George UT
 
[Hide Comment] The first pitch is chill and not even PG13. The second pitch is a free solo with a body retrieval line. Dec 6, 2020
Steven Davis
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] I didn’t place any gear after the bolt except for the belay anchors. A fall on the second pitch after the corner would have been catastrophic but I never felt insecure. Enjoy the adventure, use the fixed pro, and don’t stress about the gear. Jul 8, 2023
Addy S
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Super rad rappel. Simul rapped it with my friend. Awesome route! Aug 26, 2023
JohnWesely Wesely
Lander
 
[Hide Comment] Funky and cool climbing on the first pitch followed by a casual but very runout romp to the summit. IMO, this deserves the R rating as a new leader probably shouldn't be getting on this. The walk out is pleasant and you get to see plenty of crags on the way. 3 days ago