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Skyline

5.8, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 981 votes
FA: Steinfell Club, 1960's
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Morning Glory Spire
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

On the NW side, just left of the bolted line that comes off the ledge is this relatively easy ascent path to the top. It follows a crack/flake system whick ends at a difficult to attain (and protect) ledge move. Move right on the ledge and face climb to get to the leftward traversing overhead crack that becomes another flake/crack system. After a while exit this crack and finish on the highly features face with sparse but adequate protection.

Protection

A standard rack will be sufficient with an emphasis on the small gear. Runners are also handy.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Skyline
[Hide Photo] Skyline
Nearing the chains on "Skyline"
[Hide Photo] Nearing the chains on "Skyline"
Climber ends day as sun sets on Skyline Fall 2011.
[Hide Photo] Climber ends day as sun sets on Skyline Fall 2011.
Skyline
[Hide Photo] Skyline
Unknown climber leading Skyline on Aug 24th
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber leading Skyline on Aug 24th
Chase stepping over after the flake move on Skyline
[Hide Photo] Chase stepping over after the flake move on Skyline
Looking up Skyline from the base of the route.
[Hide Photo] Looking up Skyline from the base of the route.
Evening photo of climbers from SLC on top of Morning Glory after climbing skyline. Taken 7pm 9/28/20.
[Hide Photo] Evening photo of climbers from SLC on top of Morning Glory after climbing skyline. Taken 7pm 9/28/20.
View of Skyline from the road.
[Hide Photo] View of Skyline from the road.
Climber on Skyline, Photo taken from the summit of Batwings, on Parking Lot Rock.
[Hide Photo] Climber on Skyline, Photo taken from the summit of Batwings, on Parking Lot Rock.
Beautiful!
[Hide Photo] Beautiful!
Jeff Purdy assesses before running out the remainder of Skyline
[Hide Photo] Jeff Purdy assesses before running out the remainder of Skyline

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] One of the great climbs at the city! You may have to wait in line for this one but it's worth it. View from the top is as spectacular as the climb. The bottom half is killer and the runout upper half is easy but so much fun. Jul 26, 2004
John J. Glime
Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Wow! Be sure to climb this route, it is excellent. Aug 19, 2005
Nathan Fisher
West Bountiful
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Not nearly as runout as I remembered it. Bring small cams for the upper face and you can sew it up. A great lead for a 5.8-5.9 leader. Sep 5, 2005
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
[Hide Comment] I didn't think the upper face was sparsely protected at all. There are numerous places to put nuts between patina plates, very similar to Red Rocks. May 29, 2007
Amy Denicke
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] This was my first trad lead and even though I had to downclimb to lengthen the sling at the crux undercling, it was such a fabulous climb. Highly recommended!!! Jun 25, 2007
Smith -
Central, NJ
[Hide Comment] Had to bail from route just above crux in hail storm on 6/5. Use a long sling to extend your bail anchor to avoid crack from eating your rope. Jun 12, 2009
[Hide Comment] Best 5.8 in the City! Jul 19, 2009
[Hide Comment] Classic line! One 60m rope will just reach when rapping from the top anchors. Aug 23, 2009
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] the "crux" traverse really is not that bad. Can easily put in two good pieces along the way with good hands and adequate feet. Such a cool climb and yes a 60 meter (contrary to the guidebook) will get you down. Jun 27, 2010
[Hide Comment] A fun route with a great view at the summit...but 4 stars? I thought the best part of the route was the "crux" traverse, and the rest just so-so. I would give batwings 4 stars over this line. Just my opinion. Oct 5, 2011
Chrisleath
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] this is a must do. Keep climbing all the way to the top for the anchors. Great juggs for the final push. "Hero holds" Apr 16, 2012
[Hide Comment] Never feels insecure. Traverse gets your attention with only adequate feet but the undercling is solid and takes gear well. Protected upper face with several horizontal C4's but really is easy climbing once you leave the crack. Bucket land from there all the way to the top with an amazing top-out and view. Sweet climb. Jun 15, 2012
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID
 
[Hide Comment] You can downclimb Morning Glory Spire on the south side - probaly 5.5/6 - should you ever find yourself on top without a rope. Nov 23, 2012
K Baumgartner
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Undercling move was underwhelming. Extend your runners to reduce drag. 70m gets you down to the ledge where Fall Line commences. Jun 27, 2013
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
[Hide Comment] Fantastic Route mostly because of view from top/location. A 70m rope is enough to comfortably rap on. Intimidating Undercling start probably 5.8, but well protected with small gear prior to committing fully. The vast majority of this route is cruiser 5.6/7. Must do! Oct 29, 2013
M A
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] I was unaware that the route broke right at the bulge to follow the left trending under cling and instead I climbed straight up the bulge with micro gear through the seam. It was certainly harder than 5.8, but does anybody know what it goes at?

Great climb! Nov 12, 2013
GRK

[Hide Comment] 8+ Nov 13, 2013
S.Lee
 
[Hide Comment] Amazing route, one of my first leads. Lots of great stopper placements. May 20, 2014
Matt Steubing
Salt Lake City, Utah
[Hide Comment] If you can sit through the video on this link (sorry it's long) you'll get a good look at this amazing route and the quality of the rock. No question the best 5.8 in the City. This is a few years ago and so it's a GoPro Hero 1. Love the view at the top.

youtu.be/2O3hwZgqFrY Nov 22, 2014
Will Wright
Washington
[Hide Comment] Please be aware that a 60M rope will NOT reach the ground if the descender is to the anywhere to the left of the ledge the climb starts on. Advice to the contrary found in a guidebook contributed to a fall and broken ankle -- lucky we dodged more severe injuries or death! I advise to use at least 70m rope for however you choose to get off this climb. Jun 15, 2015
Roy Suggett
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] There are easy ways to avoid problems like the above mentioned mishap. Sep 28, 2015
[Hide Comment] Great climb and a classic, however comparing it to "City" routes I feel it is easier than Fred 5.8, White Flake 5.8 and Triple Roofs 5.7. In comparing it to High Exposure 5.6 in the Gunks, it is easier. I am saying 5.6. Jul 25, 2016
[Hide Comment] Gunk's grades are lies Andrew...don't ever use them as standards. Skyline has been 5.8 for 60 years...the underling is the crux and is over quickly. High Exposure is not accurately graded for US standards. I've climbed both routes many times and as a strange as it may seem at the 5.8 grade, High exposure would be more of a power endurance 5.8 where Skyline would be more Bouldery. Both routes are among my favorites. Jul 25, 2016
[Hide Comment] probably right Bheller, who care right climbing is fun :) Nov 11, 2016
[Hide Comment] This route is located on the morning glory spire. Beautiful line with spicy section, the gear is pretty good, though it gets a little thin and run out of the top

Here is a video I put together. Hope you enjoy!!

youtube.com/watch?v=H8HqqGH… Nov 14, 2017
Michael Leary
Los Angeles, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Enjoyable warm up in a rad location! Sep 22, 2018
Daniel Butters
Park City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This climb has one of the most scenic views of any climb I've been on! Bring your camera! Oct 20, 2018
[Hide Comment] 2 stars for climbing, 4 stars for the view.

Climbing is straightforward, with a short crux. In my opinion, Chimney on Morning Glory Spire and two other 5.8 climbs on Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall (White Flake and Triple Roofs) have more memorable moves. Jun 23, 2021
Brenden McGarrity
Norwich, CT
[Hide Comment] video of route: youtube.com/watch?v=1uGHR-c… Feb 9, 2022
Colin Brochard
San Diego, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Worth doing for the novelty alone. The hilariously positive and bomber 5.8 runout jugs at the top were just a bonus. Do it. Aug 3, 2022
Kevin Patterson
Lower Hutt, NZ
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Superb climb with a little bit of everything, crack, crimping and undercling traverse. Protects well all the way to the DBA chains Sep 15, 2022
Elise B
Salt Lake City
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome route, all the "hard" stuff protects very well. FWIW, the first time I got on this my partner and I got suckered into the chains to the right, but the actual anchors are at the very top of the formation. Quest straight up/left through really good patina w little to no protection. May 14, 2023