Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Parking Lot Rock - East

Beauty and the Beast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funky Bolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spud Meets Hammerhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stress Fracture T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tow Away Zone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Steele, Stroud
Page Views: 19,800 total, 120/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 5, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


129 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The nice crack right of the 2 all-bolted lines on the south end of the east face. It starts thin and hard, eases up, gets tough again, and finally eases up yet one more time. The bolt protects the upper crux, whereas down low the protection is tough to place. The top is very runout, but easy. Stemming and dropknees are a neccesity on this route.

Protection

There is 1 good bolt on the route. Otherwise bring small to medium gear. The anchors are a group of slings wrapped around a horn, so bring extras just in case. Also 2 ropes for the rap.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
PG-13 seems more fair. The crux isn't R, and the fall is not a grounder or ledge fall... so yeah, it's not too bad. Caution merited though. Jun 16, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.9+ R
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.9+ R
Great route, but I would say the R is warranted. less so, if you don't take it to the horn. My main reason for saying this is the flare throughout the route is tricky to protect. I think one could safely protect it with offset nuts, hexes or tricams. If you only bring cams expect some heady, albeit easy run outs. Bottom is easier to layback, but I prefer some protection. Apr 18, 2016
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This thing was fantastic, probably the best 5.9 we did at the City. Do yourself a favor, don't traverse to the chains at mid height, there is still 60+ feet of worthy climbing to do. The whole route sews up if you keep your eyes open except for the finish which is well below the crux grade, so no R rating is warranted. 2 raps to the ground with a stop at those sport route chains. Oct 1, 2011
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
5.9+ R
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
5.9+ R
As a taller climber I found this route to be pretty stout. Moving up the crux past the bolt required some weird back-step & knee-drop action. My shorter partners just stemmed up without too much hassle. Sep 12, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.9
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.9
Great route! The bottom protects well just be sure not to commit to a lie back, and screw yourself out of stances. I used 2 stoppers (DMM offsets), and a the rest protects well with a single rack up the 3 inches. I traversed over to the chains for the slab to the left so take my gear beta with a grain of salt. The funky bolt looks like it may have been drilled with haste on lead, and seems to be at an angle instead of straight in to the rock. Sep 12, 2011
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Today I saw a guy break his ankle on this route by blowing the stemming moves above the bolt and hitting the 'slab' below. Ouch. On a more positive note, the lower crack, while flared in places, protects well. Jun 29, 2011
Kevin Volkening  
  5.9
Similar experience a few years back with this being one of my first 5.9 gear lines. Feel very strongly the R needs to be removed May 1, 2011
Ted Farley
Bozeman, Mt
Ted Farley   Bozeman, Mt
my first 5.9 gear lead at the city. offsets were good for the flare at the bottom. very cool though and highly recommended. Jul 24, 2010
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.9 R
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.9 R
I was only able to get a few pieces of gear in the lower half that I actually felt confident about. The fact that the two bolts are so close to each other, and that one is old and badly bent tells me that someone probably took a huge whipper off the runout section and gave the older bolt hell. There's room for bigger gear on the second half. I threw in a #1 Camalot before making the 40ft runout to the horn. If you want there are a few small chicken heads that you can sling on the runout, but they're not needed. Jul 19, 2009
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
A Heady Lead especially up top. Worth the trip to the Horn. I recommend, going out left at the top. I went straight up found one last potential placement as passed it as my stance was above it and then cut out right onto lichen cover slab, Sketchy! May 18, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9 R
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9 R
Fun route, but be solid at the grade. Not recommended for budding 5.9 leaders. Aug 28, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9
Actually, there are two bolts on the route but the first one is probably the name for the route. It is a beat SMC hanger with half of the bolt shaft hanging out and bent. A foot higher or so is a better bolt. Although the route goes higher to a slung horn you can move off left to use intermediate chains for TR and easy rappel. We had 70m cords and had no problem using 1 cord. A 60m should work, but beware.

Susan Aug 14, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
  5.9+ R
David Shiembob   slc, ut
  5.9+ R
A little more than I bargained for for my warm-up route. Solid for the grade. I found it hard to protect the upper section, even before the 5.5 slab. Long pitch, 170-180 feet. Lieback? I didn't at all. May 15, 2007
rpc
 
rpc  
 
The "R" part happens at the top above all difficulties on terrain 5.5 or easier. Great route. From what little I recall, after the initial weird move off the deck, you can jam the crack (which becomes progressively more flaring) to the "funky bolts". Apr 19, 2006
Rob Man
SLC UT
  5.9
Rob Man   SLC UT
  5.9
Good route solid for the grade Oct 24, 2005
Led this one the other day, and I have a different perspective.Very difficult to place pro down low, due to the lieback, however, you can slot a hex in the obvious constriction. Above the bolts, the gear is predominately large nut size, and I started running out, that is if you go all the way to the slung horn, which I recommend. Very runout at the finish, but also very easy.

But as Guy says, use 1 rope, and do 2 rappels. Sep 5, 2005
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
You can get down with 1 rope on this climb by using the 2 bolt anchor on the sport route to climbers' left. Mar 17, 2005