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Paranoia Streak

5.10c R, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 49 votes
FA: Bill Cramer and Hank Armantrout, 1982
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Kermits Wall
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description

On the left side of the Kermit's Wall area is a long, thin water streak. The route follows the lower part of this streak, shifts right, then crosses back left to exit via a crack under a large block.

(The route that continues directly up the streak is Koyaanisqaatsi, a .12c balance-fest which I have yet to contemplate.)

Bring both your edging shoes and your lead head, as the second clip is serious.

Aesthetic, stimulating, and fun to the finish! Combine this with Mind Blow for a two-of-a-kind session of crystal dancing.

Protection

Four bolts, two fixed pitons, and a few small nuts and cams (less than 2").

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Catching some air on Paranoia streak - thanks for the help
[Hide Photo] Catching some air on Paranoia streak - thanks for the help
the streak
[Hide Photo] the streak
Starting the fall
[Hide Photo] Starting the fall
Jessie nearing the second bolt on Paranoia Streak.
[Hide Photo] Jessie nearing the second bolt on Paranoia Streak.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

d-know
electric lady land
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] super good line. upper portion has great moves. first part aint to bad
a fall at the crux could be bad. Jan 25, 2006
[Hide Comment] You can walk over and TR this from Touch Up. You can also reach Beam Me Up Scotty (good luck!) from this ledge system and then rap back down Paranoia Streak. Apr 24, 2006
steve santora
  5.10c R
[Hide Comment] Bill Cramer put this up in 82. Bill is about 6'3', I'm 5'7"/ getting past the runout beginning is not to bad (keep it together) but getting past the buldge is hard 10-c/d. 6 or 8" of reach would definely help. One of the best routes in the canyon. Cheers Oct 15, 2006
BCramer
Prescott
[Hide Comment] Hey Steve, How are you doing man? I see my reputation exceeds me. Do I really look that tall? I'm actually 6'0". Hank and I had fun on this one! I remember somewhere above the roof leading off some opposed sky hooks weighted with some 'biners to keep them in place. I think it was just before the cut back left. What youthful hubris! I heard there's a bolt there now. Probably a good thing too, almost no one carries skyhooks on their standard rack anymore. Dec 8, 2006
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Hey Bill, the bolt is mine. I decided there was too much good climbing in that black streak and so I bolted the continuation. Sorry if I perverted the boldness. A good variation is to continue up the streak and then exit left to the Paranoia belay before the 12c (?!) crux. May 19, 2008
[Hide Comment] Really kept my attention! I really liked the moves over the first roof/bulge. The cruxy part is really neat. Dec 19, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Consider a helmet on this one. A friend split his in half falling off the crux! Great route though - let me know if you need a belay on it :) Sep 22, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c R
[Hide Comment] I agree with the helmet. I have climbed this many times and have fallen from 3 distinct cruxes over the years. Once I hit quite hard and then bounced onto my head/helmet. Apr 16, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction
  5.10c R
[Hide Comment] Exceptional route. Bottom slab is runout and fun. Clip the 2 bolt intermediate anchor and mantle the huge chickenhead(crux). I saw 4 people all do it differently. Falling here would be ankle shattering. The middle section, again runout, is really easy and fun(not slabby) and then the upper face is a treat with good pro and tiny positive edges. The crack ending is a welcome relief. To toprope this testpiece climb "touch up" and traverse the ledges west w/ a couple 4th class moves to a set of rap bolts. Rap 30 feet down to the top of Paranoia Streak and its two bolt anchor. Toproping this climb requires a 70m rope. No pins on this route anymore, 6 bolts plus a couple cams for the top crack.

Anybody tried to sling the chickenhead at the crux? Seems like it would just pull off, but might give you some psych help. Jun 16, 2011
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
[Hide Comment] I girth hitched the chickenhead with a 4ft dyneema sling. Then fell on it.. held fine.

I think the short man beta is to go right of the chickenhead. Dec 7, 2014
[Hide Comment] At 2/3rds height, before climbing up and left onto the blank-looking steep face, micro nuts can protect a stubborn flexy flake. This is a most excellent route to sharpen the mind- it definitely has danger potential. Apr 29, 2015
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
[Hide Comment] Is there a bolt you can clip after getting on top of the chickenhead and can anyone give me an approximation on where the 6 bolts are. I've counted 2 on the start before the chickenhead and two on the upper steep face. I want to get on this and I'm trying to talk myself into giving it a go! Dec 14, 2017