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Paranoia Streak
5.10c R,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 49
votes
FA: Bill Cramer and Hank Armantrout, 1982
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Kermits Wall
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
On the left side of the
Kermit's Wall area is a long, thin water streak. The route follows the lower part of this streak, shifts right, then crosses back left to exit via a crack under a large block.
(The route that continues directly up the streak is
Koyaanisqaatsi, a .12c balance-fest which I have yet to contemplate.)
Bring both your edging shoes and your lead head, as the second clip is serious.
Aesthetic, stimulating, and fun to the finish! Combine this with
Mind Blow for a two-of-a-kind session of crystal dancing.
Protection
Four bolts, two fixed pitons, and a few small nuts and cams (less than 2").
[Hide Photo] Catching some air on Paranoia streak - thanks for the help
electric lady land
a fall at the crux could be bad. Jan 25, 2006
Prescott
Wasatch Back, UT
PG, Utah
SLC, UT
Salt Lake City, UT
Grand Junction
Anybody tried to sling the chickenhead at the crux? Seems like it would just pull off, but might give you some psych help. Jun 16, 2011
Chevy, Silverado
I think the short man beta is to go right of the chickenhead. Dec 7, 2014
thankgodchickenhead, Ut