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Astroprojection
5.11d,
Trad, Sport, TR, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 33
votes
FA: B. Smoot, 1989
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Parley's Canyon
> Riptide Wall
Description
The eastern most bolted line, Astroprojection is an edging dream or nightmare depending on your ability. It starts a little slabby, but beyond that there is nothing easy about it. Getting to the overhang is thin and tough on the fingers. Popping the overhang is a decision making process. Do you utilize the right or left crack, layback or jam? Once the roof is cleared, the climbing gets harder (imagine that). Stay off that left arete (no really!!), and edge it on up. There are beautiful edges and long reachy hands that tire the fingers. Look for a hidden (Bomber) pocket that appears out of nowhere, near the top. As the Ruckman's say, this is the testpiece of the Parley's climbs, master this and you are the King of Parleys. Bolt 1 or 2 seemed like the hanger was bent.
Protection
6 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors. These anchors can be used for the climbs Dirty Rotten Horror, Edge of the Sea, and Riptide, so a top-rope can be set this way. Also some small to medium gear might be prudent.
[Hide Photo] Setting up a top rope. We used directionals for Astroprojection on the face and a straight rope for Dirty Rotten Horror along the corner.
Salt Lake City
St George
Small Lake, UT
A #8 nut backs up the 2nd bolt nicely and will keep you of the ground in case of a catastrophic event. A .5 or .75 also fits in the crack between the 4th and 5th bolt just in case.
Everything is "on" except for the arete, it's not like there are so many holds you can afford to not use some of them. Both cracks are needed above the roof anyway.
The upper bulges require lots of balance and some unlikely thumb underclinging. The last move is a tendon-ripper, make sure you have the sequence dialed. Jun 9, 2009
Update: These are the originals. Maybe they just look thinner because some don't have washers. May 7, 2013
Small Lake, UT