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Minimum Security
5.10a R,
Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 30
votes
FA: Gary Olsen, Chris Pendleton, and Bret Ruckman 1984
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Big Cottonwood…
> Penitentiary Wall
Description
Minimum Security starts up the thin crack/seam just left of a tree. This is the first climb just right of the really wide crack called "Speed is of the Essence". The initial crack doesn't take any pro, so it would be a dangerous lead. Above, a flake affords small nut placements. The wall above has a bolt (1/4 incher) and a piton which climb through the crux. Apparently, the left arete is off route, which makes the route much harder.
Protection
This climb can be toproped after doing Jailbait or Climb and Punishment. The route is very runout, but has a bolt, piton, and some places for stoppers.
[Hide Photo] 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence 4) Climb and Punishment 5) Climbs and Misdemeanors 6) Tax Evasion 7) Speed is of the Essence 8) Minimum Security 9) Jailbait
[Hide Photo] Dancing with the Silica Swirls.
St George
My take on the Gear: It is small and sparse, with several long runouts. Down low in the initial crack, you have to spend a lot of time but I did get a couple of shaky nuts in (one brass). As the climb progresses, you can get your only "good" pre-bolt piece in the flake, again if you take your time. I used my only screamer on the bolt as it was the hardest move and I just couldn't believe how bad a shape it was really in. I was also able to get a small nut in just below the bolt. After the pin, I was able to get three quick pieces in, in a near-horizontal crack: Red Trango (shaky), orange Metolius (good), and a nut right on the arete (good). Finally run it out to the ledge, where I plugged a #1 Camalot to protect the last face.The anchor is a bolt with a badly mangled hanger, so bring more gear.
Descent: Traverse over to the slings on Climb and Punishment.
One more time... A great route with an extremely heady lead. Do this one on your best day. Aug 3, 2005
Orem, UT
Grand Junction
Liberty Wells, UT