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Routes in Autumnal Wall

East of Autumn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lone Shark T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mister Ed Has Hay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
OFR T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Shark Bait T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stay Left For Numbers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ray Dahl, Peter Jones 1991
Page Views: 61 total, 0/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

East of Autumn climbs the face near a tree in the gully on the east face of the wall. It hits a left-trending finger crack, and works this to the ledge. Here one can finish up on Lone Shark, but the better line is to now follow the 1 bolt to the exit over the mini-roof to the anchors. This climb has a smooth face followed by the decent but short finger crack.

Protection

2 bolts are at the top for the anchors. Also, there is one bolt (not in the Ruckman guide) right at the roof. Bring some small gear for the finger crack, and 1 large piece to get to the bolt after the finger crack.

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Paul Wilhelmsen
sandy, ut
 
Paul Wilhelmsen   sandy, ut
 
Really fun climb.
This 5.7 may not the best for the new trad leader. It might be a tiny bit heady for a 5.7 leader to confidently place gear in the few parts of the crack that would a take pieces, while standing on thinner edges/pockets.
I actually found this climb a little harder then the 5.8 sorcerers apprentice next to it (if you go over the roof that's protected by 1 bolt) Sep 18, 2014