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Routes in S-Curve - Lower

Alpenbock Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Monday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bourbon Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Choir Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chorus Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
City Slave S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clastic Cling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cross Town S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gas Chamber S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Times Variation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ionic Bonding S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madison Avenue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Melting Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not Much T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skid Row Variation S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Times Square S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tres Facile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Eric Stroud, Stuart Ruckman, and Gordon Doulass 1989
Page Views: 1,609 total, 10/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 16, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

This climbs the juggy roof just right of Madison Avenue. They share anchors. A nice climb with a big pull at the beginning. Very enjoyable roof climb. The climbing eases up, later on. This is the reason that I only gave it 1 star. The roof begs 2 stars, just not a consistent enough climb. Do yourself a favor and do this climb.

Protection

4 draw for the route plus 2 for the chain anchors

Photos

dnaiscool  
 
I popped a knee bar into that roof...took the gas right out of it...IMO, easier than Black Monday...not even as steep and the crux is shorter. Apr 21, 2015
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
  5.10+
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
  5.10+
Just sent this route today and aside from the roof pull (aided by high feet) this route is very straight forward. I thought it was much easier than Madison Ave. I'd give it the grade suggested basing it off the power of the move to pull the roof, but it's over after that and I would really like to say it goes at 10c. I feel it is easier than Salem's Lot (10c) over at the Slips. And while the roof pull is enjoyable, it is not tough to figure out. Overall good route that should continue to see those who are breaking into harder tens push there limits on. Jun 4, 2014
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.10
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.10
SO much easier than Times Square & Black Monday, at least for me (I'm around 6 ft tall). Bigger jugs!! Cool route! Jun 22, 2013
Erik R Johnson
Tacoma, WA
Erik R Johnson   Tacoma, WA
Clipping the first bolt is easier if you are taller. Otherwise it is sort of awkward/unnerving (at least using the sequence I did). You can always climb Madison Avenue and hang the first draw on the way down (they share the same anchors). Otherwise it was pretty fun. May 5, 2013
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
 
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
 
I would agree, this feels harder than black monday to me. Fun moves over a steep roof to a long reach to better holds...This one gets the adrenaline flowin... Feb 13, 2009
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.11a
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.11a
The Ruckman guide rates the route as 5.10d, but their topo indicates that the crux is 5.11a. The roof sequence is not technically challenging, but requires just as much physical prowess (if not more) than Black Monday (5.11a) just around the corner. Just my thoughts... Apr 22, 2007