PRINT: Rock Climb The Hook Variation, Little Cottonwood Canyon

The Hook Variation

5.7, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 74 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

This pitch starts well above the ground, so the question is what do you climb first to get to it. The way we did it was: 1st pitch: Bushwhack Crack to the chains.2nd pitch: Exposed and runout, but easy traverse left and up until you can get a piece in a crack just above the crux of Mind Blow, and then follow the next 2 bolts up to the anchors.3rd pitch: The Climb ---- Follow a rightward ramp until it ends and then follow the line of 3 bolts up to the anchors on beautiful chickenheads and crystals. A ladder in a sea of granite.Either do 3 1-rope raps or 2 2-rope raps.

Protection

3 bolt anchor at the top, and 3 draws for the climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

a granite paradise

Near the top - right below where the Hook comes in

Garred Gomez, sweet shot!

Jon Behrmann on lead...

Chicken heads

Following the chickenheaded golden goodness.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nathan Fisher
St George

5.7

2 other ways exist to get to this route.1: Climb Mind Blow in it's entirety2: Climb Schoolroom to belay #2 and then take the groove further right then the 3rd pitch and attain the anchors Jun 17, 2004

vincent pierce

5.7

Stretch yr legs before this pitch. Lots of highstepping foot to hand matches on chickenheads. Flow up the rock with very cool moves. Should be called the Tai Chi pitch. I'll give it an extra star cause it's so high on the wall. Sep 23, 2004

Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA

5.7

Here is another way to get onto this climb:

Climb the first pitch of Bushwhack as usual. Then climb the left crack on the second pitch of Bushwhack until the crack curves to the right. At this point, skip out onto the slab and straight up toward the knobs on Hook Variation. You can do all of this as one long pitch. Beware, that it is a bit runout until the first bolt this way. Dec 1, 2004

bsmoot

Sadly a bolt was added to some of the crux moves of the hook. I'm talking about the final bolt below the belay at the top of the Hook.

Through the 70's and 80's climbers got the thrill of climbing some of the classic, crux moves of the hook (and the Hook variation) without a bolt at their face. Kor and Beckey did it, us old timers did it in our old slippery EB's. Even without this bolt a fall here wouldn't be too bad. Personally, I think the bolt should be removed. Nov 17, 2007

Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut

I agree with Brian. A classic like this should be restored. Nov 17, 2007

Big Red
Seattle

A 70m single didn't reach the anchors atop bushwhack crack, had to do some slightly sketch downclimbing. Not sure if I missed a different anchor. Jan 15, 2022