[Hide Comment] I felt like the climbing to the first bolt was 5.8; however, getting the second clip is sketchy. The climbing is consistently difficult from the first bolt until the fourth bolt, the crux (for me) was around the third bolt. I think that if I were a foot taller, this route would have been 5.9. As with a lot of other routes on this wall, most of the bolts are spinners. This route was a fun challenge, and I hope to redpoint it next time. Jul 4, 2006

[Hide Comment] Whoever put a quicklink on the 1st bolt should have refrained from doing so, or put it on the 2nd bolt where it's useful! I can reach the 1st bolt with my elbow, I'm 4" away from the second regardless of where my feet are. Go figure...
3 cruxes on this route: get to the ledge, mantel the ledge (no hands), clip the 3rd bolt (long move, small crimps, no feet). Bring strong tendons. Sep 11, 2006

[Hide Comment] I agree, the rap biner is very unnecessary. There is no need to alter this route, except MAYBE to replace the spinners.
This is one of my favorites routes at the crag. A classic for sure. I'm giving it a PG-13--because there are a couple spots before the third bolt, that if you fall you could get hurt. Have a good belay on this one. Sep 12, 2006

[Hide Comment] Most bolts up higher are spinners. Bring a crash pad for the first two bolts, getting that second bolt was the hardest part I thought. Jun 2, 2007

[Hide Comment] Really fun climb on this wall -- my favorite of the bunch. First couple of clips are easier with a long wingspan, or good balance: I could reach it with no hands. Fun facey climbing with some bail-out ledges with great balancey mantles -- Classic! Sep 23, 2007

[Hide Comment] Fun cruxes, but I need to do it again for the red point :(

The first crux is between the first bolt and the ledge. The second is coming off the ledge to the 4th bolt. After that it is cake (but still really fun).

I hear people saying 5.10a, but it felt at least 5.10d to me. It could be because of my height (5' 6"). I took a lot of falls going for the second bolt but eventually figured it out. The second crux I got with one fall, but it was a hard move and long reach for sure.

I'm giving it a 5.10c/d, because that is what I felt. I took a lot of falls on the first crux. I came close to decking on a couple, but I never did (I had a good belay). I'd say it's PG-13, because you can easily take a 15' fall to the deck if your belayer isn't doing a good job. Jun 14, 2011

[Hide Comment] Fantastic route! As with every other route on this wall, I wish the first bolt was a little lower, since the lower sections on most of these routes are the thinnest parts. From the first to the second bolt is a great balancey crux up to the ledge, and then a crazy mantle onto the ledge followed by awkward high feet to reach the next bolt. After that, unfortunately easy climbing.

Favorite route on the wall. Jun 4, 2013

[Hide Comment] Has a hold broken off or something? I was on this yesterday on TR solo and the moves STRAIGHT between the first and second bolt are extremely thin and slopey. 10c is within my capability but I could not figure out the moves directly in between bolts 1 and 2. For reference what others described as the crux (by bolt 3) I was able to do just fine. I have led this before by taking the weakness to the left and clipping off to my right, and that I believe is around 10c, but going straight up on the very shallow arete between bolts 1 and 2 has some 11d/12a or harder moves for around 2 moves. Am I missing something? Nov 29, 2021

[Hide Comment] I agree with Miguel. I was trying a few things on TR solo, but the gap between the first and second bolt felt out of my league. Nov 17, 2024