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Routes in Question Mark Wall

Answer, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dirty Harry T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Doomsday Book, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fill Out This Form T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Interrogator T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Krumholtz Line, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Lonely Mountain Challenge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lowe Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Question T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pete's Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pika Paradise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Question Mark Wall Route T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Rareform T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Olsen, Ruckman, Ruckman '81
Page Views: 4,584 total, 28/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Aug 28, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

One fantastic pitch of climbing makes this route very worth doing. Approach using Pete's staircase. Instead of linking Pete's in one long pitch, stop at the half-way belay tree. From here, trend right to avoid the steep rock below the Lowe route. One long pitch gets you to easy walking ground along the big ledge system.

Traverse the ledge until near its' end (600 feet or so). Look for a continuous right facing dihedral that is about 120 feet long. This dihedral is what makes the approach worth while. Climb up a gorgeous continuous dihedral for a long pitch to an anchor around a slung chockstone (3 star pitch). Then, a fairly long wandering pitch (5.3ish) gets you to the top.

Descent: Contour below the ridge crest back to the saddle. Descend Collins highway to the Pete's staircase rappels. Another option is to rap (one 60m rope) back to the ledge system.

Protection

Standard rack. I placed everything from a green alien up to a 3.5 camalot. This could easily be led without anything bigger than hand sized gear.
Mark Kadlec
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Mark Kadlec   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Agree with Mike's last comment, this is definitely a rating higher than anything on The Lowe Route...maybe I was tired. Aug 3, 2015
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Beautiful perfect corner crack. Eats hand sized gear, and there are a few opportunities for smaller pieces in an incipient crack on the right face.

I found the first 20 feet or so to be insecure and definitely a notch harder than the first pitch of the Lowe route. Or maybe I was just tired...

First pitch is certainly less than 120 ft, probably somewhere around 80-100'. We rapped back to the ledge off the chockstone with a 70m with lots of rope to spare, and I suspect a 60m may work as well. Jul 29, 2014
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
Don't worry - we took a camera and pictures will be coming as soon as i have time to compress them.

As of last weekend, there was a tiny dirty snowpatch at the base of the summit wall that some people were melting for water. never saw it running though, so you'll need a stove and maybe coffee filters to strain it. absolutely no other water along the approach from alpine. we just carried all of our water in, which was brutal but probably the best idea.

The cirque is incredible! Sep 1, 2004
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
You guys didn't take a camera for your first trip to Lone Peak!!??? WTF??PS....how's the snow patch in the cirque? What approach did u use? Water? ....Mark Sep 1, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
If this pitch was near the road it would be 3 stars and have a line at all times. Spectacular crack - even better than pitch 1 of the Lowe Route. Too bad it isn't longer.

There is a rap anchor on the big ledge at the base just past the start of this route. It is probably a double rope rap to the ground, and is worth checking out if you don't top out since traversing the ledge is a pain.

If you top out, drop down a bit before traversing back to the saddle between Question Mark Wall and the South Summit Wall. If you are making moves harder than class 3, you are off route. Aug 31, 2004