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Urban Sprawl

5.10a PG13, Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 85 votes
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1990
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > S-Curves > S-Curve - Upper Wall


Very steep and juggy, with two roofs to pull at the top. On lead, failing to clip the bolts atop the roofs could prang you into the jagged rocks below. The route actually moves left of the final roof, then right to the anchors. This route shares anchors with Clean Underwear (5.9) immediately to its east. So you could lead Clean Underwear first if you'd prefer to toprope, but be advised: the toprope will tend to yank you right, off route.


Five bolts, bomber links at the anchors.

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Talia On Urban Sprawl
[Hide Photo] Talia On Urban Sprawl
Urban Sprawl.
[Hide Photo] Urban Sprawl.

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[Hide Comment] Is there supposed to be a bolt in between #3 and #4? That is a pretty big fall (possible grounder) and considering how well everything else is bolted... it seems like one belongs there. Also, above #3 do u head straight up the bulge or hang right or left? Straight up seemed harder than 10a but going right or left seems off route. Mar 15, 2005
Rebecca Airmet
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] If you plan on top-roping this, consider clipping the bolts on rappel to avoid the swing to the right. This will also allow you to actually get back on the route if you pop off. There are also now two sets of anchors at the top, one each for this and Clean Underwear, right next to each other. Sep 5, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] Good route. Fits right in to the area. Looking up at the distance between bolt 3 & 4, I felt there must be another bolt. However, when you get there and realize there isn't, it isn't that big of a deal as it pretty easy climbing. Apr 25, 2006
Shaun Greene
[Hide Comment] Strange bolt placements. Use long Runners through the crux. Oct 7, 2008
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] Steep and fun 10a. Definitely feels a bit runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but it's on easy ground. Don't fall, and if you're grabbing a bad hold you're probably missing a jug nearby. The traverse under the roof heading right is weird, the really low hands force you to arch backward if you don't want to rub your face on the rock. Interesting moves. Oct 7, 2008
Michael Buchanan
[Hide Comment] Biiiiiiiiggggg Jugs with lots of rests. Not sure it is all that runout, felt pretty standard to me. Super fun! Apr 20, 2010
Stan Pitcher
[Hide Comment] Long sling recommended for bolt 4. If you TRing it, be sure to back-clip bolts 5, 4 (long), and 3. I think the crux is at the bottom - consider a stick clip or treating as a boulder problem and clipping the 1st bolt when its at your waist. Great route! Mar 12, 2012
Aaron Livingston
Ouray, CO
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] pretty sustained, hit it up. Feb 22, 2013
Garrett Carter
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] While somewhat runout, the climbing in between is easy. Keep your head and you'll do fine. Plenty of places to rest and shakeout. Steep and juggy. Fun climb Apr 19, 2014
Cassidy Thomas
Syracuse, NY
  5.10a/b PG13
[Hide Comment] I top roped it. I went straight up the bolt line. I want to go back and do it on lead but I noticed it good be a bit of a gnarly fall if you mess up on the crux at the bulge. If you go right over the bulge it felt a little harder than some other 10a's in BCC. Jul 4, 2016
Jacobstown, NJ
[Hide Comment] Last roof is killer if you go straight through it. I'd say 10b if you do. Bring a cam or two for the runout. Oct 21, 2017
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] Honestly a little harder than 10a, not just the opening moves but as a whole. Anyway a fun fun line with lots of weird decisions to make, but amazing holds throughout. May 13, 2021
[Hide Comment] All lead and anchor bolts have been replaced by the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) with FIXE INOX 1/2 glue-in bolts. A bolt was added between #3 and #4. This route may no longer be PG13. Please consider donating to the SLCA for future anchor replacement projects.

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Submit an Anchor Observation:… Jan 2, 2024