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Choose Your Weapon

5.9, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 123 votes
FA: Jason Stevens
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Left Fork > Engagement Alcove

Description

Nice, well-protected crimpy climbing just right of the black streak (Wet Ichies - 5.8).

Protection

Six bolts to an anchor - however, see comments on anchor condition below.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mark giving Kara an attentive belay.
[Hide Photo] Mark giving Kara an attentive belay.
Near the top, wondering where the @$#% are the hangers (May 2, 2004).
[Hide Photo] Near the top, wondering where the @$#% are the hangers (May 2, 2004).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Harvey Miller
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Note: On May 2, 2004, the hangers were missing from the anchors. You have two choices: i) climb a 30 foot run-out to an ice climbing anchor above the CYW anchor (fairly mellow - 5.6, but a fall could be ugly). ii) probably safer - traverse to the left to the anchors for Wet Ichies. May 4, 2004
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Yeah, wtf is up with that? Is it because the rock the anchors are in look like it could come out as a watermelon chunk if someone fell on it hard enough? I chose to go right and use the bolt from 'An 80/20 Ratio' and up to those anchors.

still no hangers as of 6-24-07 Jun 25, 2007
Michael Rose
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I replaced the anchors on this route today (5/31/2008). Hopefully they'll stick around this time. May 31, 2008
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Michael, thanks for replacing those! I think I'll move the anchors up another 10 feet. It's better rock and the final moves would be a lot better.

Jason May 14, 2010
Garth Donald
Chelan, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Quick links at the top have seen some rope action. Would be with replacing if you have the gear and a wrench with you. Oct 25, 2018
[Hide Comment] The Knezek/Knight book calls this 5.7. I think 5.9 is more accurate. There are rings at the anchor, not quick-links.
Very nice climb, small but good holds. Jun 3, 2021
Brian Reyman
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb (this and the 5.10a were our favorites at the wall). Enjoyable, sustained movement. Jun 6, 2024