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Routes in Five Fingers Area

Chicken Chickenhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Man's Misery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Five Fingers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hornet's Rest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scumbag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tenderloin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Waltz, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 269 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 14, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


At the base of Five Finger Wall, to the left of the "five fingers" is a large pine tree with a 3rd class scramble below it. Get to this pine tree. It then climbs up the relatively easy slab-corner system to the big chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney using the crack. Fun hand and fist jams, and easy footwork.


Medium to large gear protect this climb well. Hexes were especially good. Natural anchors at the top so bring runners.


Mark P Thomas
Mark P Thomas   Draper
No wide gear is needed for this climb. I sewed it up and used BD 2x#0.4, 1x#0.5, 2x#0.75, 1x#1-3. Anchor off bushes at the top but be careful of loose rock. You can also reach the rappel anchor to The Waltz & Tenderloin to avoid leaving slings at the top, and an easier descent option from those routes rather than the pine tree. May 15, 2017