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Notalotatalk

5.8, Trad, 40 ft,  Avg: 2.1 from 29 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood… > Talk Buttress

Description

This is the climb that climbs the flake on the right side. It pops over the flake and then starts a nice rightward shuffle. The shuffle is a blast, as the crack is nice on the fingers.

Protection

Bring large hexes and medium nuts for the anchors. Also, bring medium to large gear for the climb with some runners.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Talk Buttress - Look Who's Talking on the left, Notalotatalk on the right.
[Hide Photo] Talk Buttress - Look Who's Talking on the left, Notalotatalk on the right.
Topping out after some good crack moves
[Hide Photo] Topping out after some good crack moves
One final hand crack.
[Hide Photo] One final hand crack.
Sloppy seconds on Notalobbatalk.
[Hide Photo] Sloppy seconds on Notalobbatalk.
Jamming up the crack.
[Hide Photo] Jamming up the crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Stout for 5.8, awkward, and the crack flares inward so gear is a bit tricky to place, though solid if you work at it. Not nearly as good as the other 5.8 on the buttress. Jul 7, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The hardest move is getting off the ground, although you can protect the initial moves by placing a piece before you start climbing. Good hand jamming technique is a must, and there is a second crux right below the roof. The route protects well with SLCDs and hexes. The anchor station is a nice, picnic table ledge. Oct 7, 2004
[Hide Comment] This is a fun route, I thought the gear was fine, it is just a little short. Jun 20, 2007
[Hide Comment] Nuts protect this better than cams; really irregular crack system.

Fun route, just a little short.

Also: a 2 bolt anchor has been added to a slab near the end of the route. I found it easier just to continue traversing off right to the tree/gully and belay from there. I don't really see the point of the newly added bolt anchors: you can't even rap from them since there are no quicklinks there. Jun 9, 2010
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Second best route on the wall after the 5.9 just to this routes left. Jul 2, 2011
Greg Z
Sandy, UT
5.7
[Hide Comment] This climb would be a good intro to trad climbing in BCC imo. Take your time and practice sewing it up! Clean it, think about what you really need up there and do it again. Jul 7, 2012