PRINT: Rock Climb Lenny's Route, Big Cottonwood Canyon

Lenny's Route

5.8, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 1.8 from 27 votes
FA: Lenny Nelson
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Storm Mtn Picni… > Storm Mtn Island

Access Issue: See bullet points in description. Details

Description

Approach as per Nice Little Crack. This is the bolted face. Tricky start over the 1st roof, leads to edges and fun climbing. Midway you will find a bulge, friction over this avoiding the foot crack to the left. Finally, trick #3, pop over the top roof. And there... the anchors?.

Protection

2 bolts atop for the anchor, BEWARE one is suspect. Also, 7 draws for the route. You will also need a small set of medium gear for the upper roof.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

2 Nice Little Crack. 3 Unknown Face. 4 Storm Mountain Stupor

Rope hanging on route, only saw 6 bolts.

Jen gets a lap on Lenny's Route - 07 September 2014

Pete on Lenny's Route (my vote for the route name instead of "unknown"...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA

5.7

I climbed this in Fall 2001. The anchor at the top was pretty crappy. Look for a (better) third bolt up above the first two (one of which spins). I found a CTR ring up here on a tiny (2"x2") ledge. Weird. Apr 22, 2005

Harvey Miller

5.8

Yeah, one of the anchors at the top is bad. A good option is to use the good anchor as a bolt, and then finish the climb by traversing to the left to the anchors at the top of Nice Little Crack. Its not very far. Belay your follower from the top, and then rap from those anchors. Jun 16, 2005

Walt Haas
Salt Lake City, UT

5.8

IIRC Lenny Nelson told me a few years ago that he had bolted this route. Unfortunately I forgot the name he gave it :-( Nice route though.

With TR protection, you can climb the slightly more difficult face a few feet to climber's left of the bolts. Mar 28, 2007

tony tuttle
Salt Lake City, UT

5.8- PG13

Climbed on 9/5/2010. I liked the crag, nice place to get away to on an otherwise crowded Storm Mountain Saturday. Nobody else ventured to these climbs.

The climb itself is pretty fun. Nothing too difficult, the crux for me was where the blocky holds disappear and there are a couple of smeary moves on rounded rock.

The roof was really fun to pull over as well but nothing too crazy.

The suspect bolt is still there. We backed up the anchor with a nut placed a little lower.

This place is worth the extra approach if you don't want to fight crowds. Sep 7, 2010

Daniel Winder

5.7 PG13

Needlessly PG-13. The last bolt is way too low to prevent a ledge fall if you somehow blew it going over the roof. Aug 17, 2012

DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA

5.7

Done in approach shoes. A fun line, no harder than 5.7, It really should be a trad climb though since nearly every bolt had a spot for pro within 3 feet of it if you had the right gear (Tricams, nuts, and mastercams). Apr 30, 2013

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT

5.8

OK route that would be very good with one more bolt at the roof. Definitely a candidate for rebolting - rusted stud bolts, most likely with mixed metals. Aug 31, 2015

greggrylls
Salt Lake City

To update bolts are still rusted... Yeah one more bolt would have been nice. I couldn't find any gear on the roof. It's pretty easy and straightforward but if 5.7/8 is your limit I wouldn't be doing this a fall from the roof would hurt your ankles. Hard to fall though it's very positive big ole jugs Jul 20, 2018

bus driver

I doubt Lenny is going to put another bolt in this thing.
We bought his BOSCH back in ‘94... Jul 20, 2018

greggrylls
Salt Lake City

6/3 Replaced suspect anchor bolt and added a new stainless bolt at the aforementioned unprotected roof.

(for those avoiding using the anchors that was a good call as the suspect rusty bolt broke and fell out while trying to loosen the nut with a short wrench....) scary! Jun 7, 2021

flexlaluge

Bolted anchor is new at the top, 2 new bolts with chains put in around 10/1/ 22.
Will try and clean up old gear in the next couple weeks. Oct 9, 2022