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Lord of the Long Arms

5.9+, Trad, TR, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.2 from 47 votes
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, Kevin Sweeney 1988
Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood… > Glass Ocean & Environs

Description

On the south end of Glass ocean are 3 routes with bolts. This is the middle one. It climbs a smooth edgy face to a ledge and continues up a nice but easy crack.

Protection

Slings (Lg) around a horn and a couple extra pieces for a backup.2 draws for the lead plus a small selection of gear for the upper crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route again today, and there is a right-facing crack that angles right. This can be climbed and isn't much harder than a 5.7. It adds a nice finish to a pleasant climb. Jul 13, 2004
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Great route! Must do if your up there. The upper section protects well with small to med. cams. Oct 9, 2005
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This makes a good first pitch to High Dive as well, though it is a bit short. Oct 17, 2005
[Hide Comment] only good if you use it as an approach to the High Dive. Even then its not all that great. If you're there to do the High Dive then you might as well do Tsunami. Jun 3, 2007
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely the best start to High Dive and a good climb on its own. Jun 25, 2007
[Hide Comment] All the routes on this little slab are quarter-inch buttonheads. They look to be in good shape, but.... Jul 14, 2013
[Hide Comment] For what it's worth, the old bolts are 5/16 inch buttonheads. That makes them the same diameter as the bolt in a 3/8 inch 5 piece rawl so they have essentially the same shear strength. They are longer than a 1/4 inch buttonhead (1.5 vs. 1 inch) although shorter than the 5 piece rawls (2 to 3 inches). In rock as hard as quartzite they seem to maintain excellent pull-out strength. All this being said they are still 25 years old, so ... Jul 17, 2013
[Hide Comment] That's great info Gary -- you need to post up more. I didn't see any rust, so I think these are good to go for awhile (but they are all SMC hangers, so at some point, replacing them would be a good public service). Hope you didn't think my post was a criticism. I have placed my share of split shaft buttonheads with SMC hangers (worse, a number were the shorty 1/4 inchers with homemade bedframe hangers) -- now also decades old; spooky! Jul 17, 2013
ddriver
SLC
 
[Hide Comment] This is damn good. If it were by the road it would be a fave. Jun 10, 2014
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Will second the opinion that it's actually a good climb. Good holds hide on quartzite! I used a #1 and a black alien to protect the upper section, although you really have many options. Sep 19, 2014