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Fine Arete

5.11a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 20 votes
FA: Randy Kieliszewski, Steve Habovstack 1990
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Dark Star Gully


This is a nice climb that rises out of the water right on the arete that separates Dark Star from Autumnal Wall. Good clips, steep to overhanging rock. It does share a lot of its line with Shibumi.


2 bolts up top for the anchors. 8 draws for the climb

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11) Black Heart  15) Fine Arete
[Hide Photo] 11) Black Heart 15) Fine Arete

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vincent pierce
[Hide Comment] This route is really FUN! Reminds me a bit of Black Monday. Though it is not as steep it has those good holds that keep coming at ya. Pumped when u get to the crux near the last bolt. Try to stay off the blocky stuff to the right down low or u are just cheating yourself. I have heard it is called "fine arete". Jul 21, 2004
vincent pierce
[Hide Comment] That rating is supposed to be 11.a! Jul 22, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
[Hide Comment] This route crosses over the old route Shibumi. Shibumi (look at Ruckman's guide) does a hand traverse along the ledge, gets to the arete and then crosses left at the faint left diagonalling cracks near the top. They share the middle bolts. Shibumi's crux was on the arete and was rated 5.11a. The FA of the arete line called it a 5.11b. I have done it and would call it a 5.11a. However, I wouldn't argue over 5.11a or 5.11b. Now to the 5.11d rating, I would be hard pressed to agree with you on that. I need to get back on it and see what I think. Anyone else have an opinion on this route? Jul 22, 2004
[Hide Comment] I think he meant to put 5.11a? We can change it if so. Jul 22, 2004
vincent pierce
[Hide Comment] I meant to put 11a! See my 2nd comment. Of course if u think it is 11b I will take that instead. Haha. Jul 26, 2004
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] Lots of bolts! Great for an aspiring 11 leader. Good holds, more pumpy than anything. Aug 27, 2008
Garrett Carter
[Hide Comment] For years I have thought this was creekside crag and a different climb entirely. Glad I discovered what it really is. Fun, pumpy climb that goes out of the stream, lots of passing traffic for the glory seekers. Apr 18, 2014
Dank Beer
Wall NJ
[Hide Comment] 5th bolt is missing a hanger Oct 19, 2020