Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Chambered Nautilus

5.10a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 505 votes
FA: Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan 1995
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Challenge Buttress > E Face

Description

This climb is just right of the obvious "Coral Bells Arete". It climbs the north overhanging face. The roofs will tax you, but it is not as hard as it looks. My **** rating may be influenced by the fact that this was my 1st 5.10 and an onsight.

Protection

2 chains for the top. 7 draws for the climb. 1st bolt is kind of high and awkward. 1 runner.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo from the bottom Shows Proximity to Coral Bells
[Hide Photo] Photo from the bottom Shows Proximity to Coral Bells
1)  Coral Bells Arete  2)  Chambered Nautilus  3)  Birth Simulator
[Hide Photo] 1) Coral Bells Arete 2) Chambered Nautilus 3) Birth Simulator
workin the flake... this is where I got stumped on lead.  Just couldn't clip that next bolt.  Stupid brain.
[Hide Photo] workin the flake... this is where I got stumped on lead. Just couldn't clip that next bolt. Stupid brain.
The roof of Chambered Nautilus (5.10a). Photo by Casey Grimley.
[Hide Photo] The roof of Chambered Nautilus (5.10a). Photo by Casey Grimley.
Resting after leading
[Hide Photo] Resting after leading
Notice the nice 4 finger jam under the roof... key
[Hide Photo] Notice the nice 4 finger jam under the roof... key
Looking up from the bottom
[Hide Photo] Looking up from the bottom
Fun Climb
[Hide Photo] Fun Climb
At the finish.
[Hide Photo] At the finish.
Raven on tr for this really technical 10.a
[Hide Photo] Raven on tr for this really technical 10.a
Finishing the crux clip on Chambered Nautilus.
[Hide Photo] Finishing the crux clip on Chambered Nautilus.
Climbing Chambered Nautilus
[Hide Photo] Climbing Chambered Nautilus

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Gitlin
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Seven bolts long, this fantastic route has a little of everything. A bouldery beginning, some balance moves, laybacking off flakes, and a burly roof pull below the anchors. One hint: find the well-chalked undercling to unlock the roof sequence. Jun 3, 2004
Nathan Fisher
West Bountiful
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Bring a runner for bolt 5. Jun 4, 2004
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Pretty fun route. I don't think the last bolt is necessary, it is an awkward/unnecessary clip, but nonetheless a fun route. Jun 14, 2004
Awatubi
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The last bolt is awkward...if you look a few feet down and right from it you will see a bolt that has been chopped/sheared. This may have been the original (and much more logical) clip. Jun 21, 2004
Jared Hargrave
Salt Lake City, UT.
[Hide Comment] Rather than use a runner on bolt 5, I simply unclipped it after clipping bolt 6 to avoid rope drag. The quickdraw was easy to reach with my left hand after clipping into bolt 6. Also felt that the roof was easier than the roof on Coral Bells Arete. Crazy? Jun 26, 2007
john richards
salt lake city UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] For a steady 5.10 climber this climb will seem pretty easy. Apr 21, 2008
[Hide Comment] Good sustained climbing. Definitely takes a little thinking out here and there. A good first 5.10 for sure. quality route. May 15, 2008
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. Akward moves getting to the 3rd bolt (this is my crux if not THE crux). Well it was akward when 5.10a/b was my limit...

+1 on not clipping the last bolt, forget the bolt and concentrate on finishing the roof! Jun 27, 2008
[Hide Comment] Great route! Some nice stemmy movements down below with great high steps. Balancy moves with side pulls that could go all the wrong ways without the right pivots. Lee Gitlin gave a nice bit of beta on this with that undercling being the key to unlock the roof, allowing the feet to get up high so you can clear it. The only downside to this route is it seems too short once you clear the roof. I wanted MORE! Jul 7, 2009
Finn The Human
The Land of Ooo
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb, pulling the upper roof is definitely the crux. Go big, you're well protected! Aug 17, 2009
Michael Buchanan
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Big moves to big jugs and some sweet roofs. Sport wankin' in BCC couldn't get any better. Apr 27, 2010
Andrew Arredondo
Salt Lake City
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] I climbed this a few weeks ago on my first day of outdoor lead climbing. It was an awesome route and I would really recommend it. Getting past the roof is def the scariest part, but it is actually pretty easy if you find the undercling and get your feet nice an high. Jun 6, 2011
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This is a really well protected route. The first bolt is very high though, and the start is bouldery. A stick clip would be a good idea. Folks are right about the 3rd to last bolt needing to either be unclipped or use a long runner. There is also a really good rest, right before the roof. You could have a sandwich before heading over the roof... Sep 1, 2011
[Hide Comment] Does the route just right of Chambered Nautilus, the crack in corner have a name and rating? Apr 20, 2012
GRK

Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Missing some red/white/black scarpa feroce shoes size 10. Last seen beneath chambered nautilus/coral bells arete...reward will be beer (or slurpee if you're LDS). shoot me an email please... Jun 1, 2012
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Great fun climb! Sidepulls make you think about your body movement, as they all seem to angle off in the wrong directions. Fun pulling the roof! Jul 18, 2012
Garrett Carter
SL, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fun climb with a bit of everything as mentioned. Boulder-y start, thin flake, and a small roof. Beta has been given, nothing more to really add. Definitely worth doing, a great first lead for the aspiring 10a leader. Apr 18, 2014
B Jolley
Utah
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Great Climb, well worth doing. First bolt a little precarious. Bolt 5, recommend a longer draw. Jun 28, 2015
Cassidy Thomas
Syracuse, NY
 
[Hide Comment] Unfortunately I think it's a case of too little too late when it comes to the rap rings on the anchors. I think something should be placed up there fairly soon, even if its just a burley set of links. I didn't feel comfortable clipping into those rings when it came time for me to clean the route. Aug 24, 2016
Andrew Butts
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] The nice sidepull/undercling out to the right of bolt four broke off, doesn't change the climb too much but good warning to watch for loose blocks on the route. It was a football sized piece of rock that easily could've injured anyone below. Stay vigilant for loose blocks on this crag. Jul 12, 2019