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Thieves Reprieve

5.8+ R, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 33 votes
FA: Scott Unice, Julie Gustin 1990
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Creekside Crag

Description

On the south face there are 2 routes with fixed gear, this is the left route. Frictiony holds and edges allow you to romp up this route. My brother took an interesting rolling fall on this one but the small nuts he had placed held, on a rather large fall. Be careful.

Protection

2 bolts and chains atop for the anchor, 2 bolts protect the upper section. Small to medium gear (#.5 and smaller C4s,  #1 to #0 Master Cams) or smaller nuts.

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Thieves reprieve and face the fax
[Hide Photo] Thieves reprieve and face the fax

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SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Another great one needs more trafic to clean up. Jun 28, 2012
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Does anyone no What the deal is with the bolts on this route. It originally had 1 bolt and protected just fine with gear. It now has 7 bolts on this climb. Did the first ascent party retro-bolt it or what. It was a fun and exciting lead just the way it was. Jul 10, 2014
[Hide Comment] I put that up years ago. There should be few if any bolts on it. It took pretty good gear. If there was a problem then I am ok with bolt or two since trad climbing techniques are not common. But to bolt a route without at least asking permission from first ascent team is unethical... seven bolts... wow times have changed. May 31, 2017
[Hide Comment] Route has been retrobolted. Now 2 anchors near the top + medium to small gear, run out a bit but the protection is solid. Jun 26, 2021
zoso
 
[Hide Comment] Wait so did the superfluous bolting get chopped?

If so that’s good. Jun 26, 2021
Hansen Wendlandt
  5.8 R
[Hide Comment] I'd love to jump into the fray concerning inclusive climbing versus puritanical machismo, but... way up on the highest anchors above this climb, I left two draws today, because I got destroyed by a tornado of bees. If anyone is wandering up there to chop or drill or just climb for the fun of it, whilst trying not to disturb our little friends, I'll buy a beer for the rescue! Jul 27, 2021
Jacob Shirley
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] The sport bolts have been removed, unfortunately. Jul 30, 2021