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Abracadabra

5.5, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 40 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Salt Lake Slips

Description

Short little chimney on the right edge of the South face. It then climbs a finger crack around the corner. Enjoyable as chimneys go, only too short.

Protection

Standard rack, no fixed gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Already outside of the chimney then I placed my first piece of gear.
[Hide Photo] Already outside of the chimney then I placed my first piece of gear.
easy as pie
[Hide Photo] easy as pie

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

john richards
salt lake city UT
  5.5
[Hide Comment] avoid this route. horrible rope drag and a dumb walk over to the rap rings not worth it Apr 21, 2008
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.5
[Hide Comment] i wish the chimney were bigger, as it's the funnest part. good route for trad noobs. rope drag is cured with a high first placement. i used a camalot #2. There is however a nosey tree halfway up. and a slightly undesirable traverse to the chains. still worth it. Sep 29, 2008
Mark Goodro
Puget Sound, Washington
 
[Hide Comment] I think this is an undeservedly overlooked route. It's not a bad climb, the chimney is fun, the finger crack is short but interesting. It's a good TR if you build an anchor at the top - large gear is helpful there, up to a #5 Camalot. It sounds like the main complaint is the traverse over to the other anchor for descent - which I heartily agree does suck. I think it might be worth adding a bolted anchor at the top of this one - if for no other reason than to preserve the safety of the climbers below. It would be horrifyingly easy to knock large rocks down onto climbers on Salem's Lot and Witch Hunt if you choose to rap from the Witch Hunt anchor. A walk-off to the top of the Slips gully isn't fun either. Aug 20, 2009
[Hide Comment] This route was actually pretty fun, my second trad lead. I climbed up and traversed over to the anchors for 'goth girl' As stated, the traverse is awkward and made me nervous. It would be a real fun beginner trad route if it had it's own set of anchors.

Also, as someone stated above, rope drag can be avoided by a high first placement and can be further avoided with a piece to redirect just above the chimney section. Jul 10, 2014
Cody Willever
Trenton, NJ
  5.5 PG13
[Hide Comment] Fun little climb through the chimney, I suggest not placing any gear until after getting out of the chimney to prevent rope drag and use those alpine draws. Towards the end of the climb where you traverse left, the tree will smack you as you climb over an exposed area. But have no fear, the holds are bomb and the anchors are easy to get to. I suggest belaying from the top to grab gear since the anchors are far out of the way from the chimney. Jun 14, 2018
Ross Coyle
Murray, UT
  5.6 X
[Hide Comment] I"m usually not in the chop bolts camp but this is a terrible and dangerous line that could easily get someone killed one day. Avoid and I would recommend removing it from MP. Jul 25, 2023