Vince Romney   5.10c

[Hide Comment] Just a bit of beta for the lead... as I approach the chains, I have found there is an adequate right hand up high and right, which allows me to hang off a straight arm to clip my daisy chain into the chains with my left hand. I find this a key hold as most of the time I'm usually a little pumped by the time I reach the chains. Aug 5, 2004

Lee Gitlin   5.10b

[Hide Comment] If you like bouldering problems at the gym, you'll love Salem's Lot. Lots of interesting body position required, with very positive holds if your belly button is pointed in the right direction. My crux was at the anchor chains. One caution: if you swing too much during rap/lowering, you find yourself bouncing off a rather large tree. Aug 21, 2004

vincent pierce   5.10c

[Hide Comment] Fun... but clipping those chains is quite awkward. Jul 6, 2005

Ryan Peterson North Salt Lake, Utah

[Hide Comment] Climb is covered in bat guano. At least 4 huge piles on the way up. Jun 9, 2007

john richards salt lake city UT   5.10a

[Hide Comment] easier than witch hunt in my opinion. far right pocket for your hand at the chains makes it easy to clip. Cleaning the route is what sucks. as you dangle there its hard not to spin in circles if your a short guy like me. Apr 21, 2008

icsteveoh salt lake city, UT   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Fun blackmonday-esk climbing to yes an awkward chain set up. But a big right hand is ticked with chalk and there's a huge hand left of the left bolt. Probably equally as hard as chamber nautilus which is 10a but this climb is more sustained. May 18, 2008

Michael MacFadden   5.10b

[Hide Comment] I don't think we can judge the difficulty of this route against dog pile. The word on the street is that dog pile is severely sand-bagged. Also, this is definitely harder than wichhunt right next to it which has a 10a rating, so I would give this at least a 10b. May 19, 2008

Jon Zucco Denver, CO   5.10a/b

[Hide Comment] climbs like 10b-ish. It's a great lap route, more sustained than witch-hunt with no obvious crux. there are great edges on either side of the chains. you just have to feel them out. (way easier than dog pile in that the holds are all pretty much huge.) Sep 17, 2008

mattjbudd Budd West Valley, UT   5.10c

[Hide Comment] Check out some footage. youtube.com/watch?v=mJ8TytS… Aug 20, 2010

mattjbudd Budd West Valley, UT   5.10c

[Hide Comment] FYI, there was a key jug that fell off this route recently. I went there yesterday, and it was gone. It was a little jug right at the beginning where the overhang started. Before the hold came off, it felt like a 5.10a or 5.10b to me, but now it feels more like a 5.10b or 5.10c. Aug 20, 2010

Garrett Carter SL, UT   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Really fun climb. Juggs and sustained. Crux for me was clipping chains. As before mentioned, big hold on right of anchors makes it a bit easier to clip. Like a mini black monday Aug 30, 2013

Kirk Hilton Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] This definitely felt like .10c. By the way, the last links on the chains are wearing thin. Anyone up for fixing this? I don't have the knowledge on how to properly do this (or the equipment I think I may need). Sep 14, 2013

kalockwood SLC, UT   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] New glue-in and quick links added to the anchor by James Garrett and I on 9/16/13 to address the grooved chains and rusty bolt. Safe to climb if you were worried about the previous post by Kirk H. Sep 17, 2013

Kirk Hilton Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] Anchor looks great and is a solid setup now! Thanks guys! Sep 17, 2013

Andrew Warner Salt Lake City, Utah   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Climbed this last weekend and came here to post about the sketchy chains. So glad to hear they've been fixed because this is a great climb! Sep 20, 2013

David Jan Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] Climbed this today, excellent pumpy route. Noticed the glue-in pin to the right of the two-bolts-n-chain setup is starting to bend downward cracking the glue. It looks as though it may potentially pull out someday. May 22, 2015

James Garrett Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] Thanks for bringing to our attention anything that appears out of the ordinary or perhaps unsafe. I do, however, recall when I installed this anchor that it looked like it tilted a bit downward immediately after placing it. Nature of the rock? As for the "cracking" in the glue on the surface of the glue in, not sure. Does it wiggle or is it loose? That bolt is long and I would bet it is super bomber UNLESS the rock around it has become unstable? If anyone else can add any more info on the status of this bolt, it would be very appreciated...otherwise, I will try to get to it soon. It is a 3 bolt anchor and I hope that it more than supplements the other two very rusted 25+ year old stud bolts. May 23, 2015

Connor Hendry sandy utah

[Hide Comment] Pulled out the bent glue in today. Rest of the bolts and the other anchor still looked solid. Jul 24, 2017

James Garrett Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] OK, thanks for bringing this to our attention. My earlier fears that it seemed to be bad rock where the glue-in replaced the other one must be the cause. I believe it was previously a 3 bolt anchor and we replaced a spinner. Do two bolts still remain there? I would suggest people stay off this route at least for a couple of days and then I will hope to return there and redo the anchor. Thanks again for your understanding. I would love to see the bolt that pulled out if possible. I will drive to where you are, if that is OK. Jul 24, 2017

James Garrett Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] Top anchor repaired and ready to go Jul 25, 2017

Connor Hendry sandy utah

[Hide Comment] You're the man James! I appreciate your concern and fixing the anchor so fast!! I replied to your email I'd been out of town a couple of days but if you wanna stop by and see it or I can meet you some where I'm all for it. Thanks for the speedy repair dude me and I hope the rest of my slc climbing community appreciates what you do! Jul 28, 2017

Charlie S NV

[Hide Comment] 2nd bolt is suspect (rusted and spinning). Fun climb! Jun 16, 2018

Mason Eyre Holladay, UT   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] I hit the tree after I cleaned the last draw. Haha. Aug 20, 2019

Dylan Day Salt Lake City, UT   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] This route was pretty dope for the grade. I’ve had a hard time finding 10b’s that I’m stoked on. Jugs and side pulls keep you on, I found two awesome dropped knees that really added to the value of this climb. Sep 16, 2022