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Pick Pocket

5.8, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 78 votes
FA: Vicki Smoot, Brian Smoot, 1989
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Parley's Canyon > Iron Curtain Wall

Description

This climb tends to be more smearing and less edging than a quartzite climber is used to, due to the --correct me if I'm wrong-- less metamorphosed nature of the quartzite. It is an enjoyable climb, albeit a little short. It's been a few years since I have climbed it, but the pitons looked good.

Protection

This has a 2-bolt anchor. It consists of 2 bolts and 2 pitons.

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Slippery
[Hide Photo] Slippery
not all the holds are good, you gotta trust your feet a lot
[Hide Photo] not all the holds are good, you gotta trust your feet a lot

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Gitlin
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] The route starts off with an intimidating run at the first bolt (at least 12 feet off the deck). Be sure to clip the new bolt and not its spun-out, 1/4 inch little brother immediately next to it. I'm not 100% confident in the second piton, a knife blade that looks old enough to come out of Sir Edmund Hillary's rucksack. You may want to back it up with a piece of gear. All in all, a fun (but short) route that requires some interesting movement and traversing. Worth the effort. Jul 1, 2004
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Pins were fine, last bolt was a spinner, as were both rusted anchor bolts. For some reason I had more trouble on this climb than any other one at the wall. Jun 2, 2007
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Both anchors at the top are rusted and spinning. Pitons are rusted but seem solid. Two bolts, three pitons- the first erroneous piton is right next to a bolt. My belayer lowered me very slowly and carefully once I saw the super sketchy condition the anchors were in.

We ended up climbing Mutation, the 5.9 to the right, then lowering and traversing left across the gully to grab the gear from this climb since no one wanted to go up it once we realized the condition of the anchors. I wouldn't climb this again without setting up my own anchor. Mar 31, 2013
Gub
  5.8
[Hide Comment] A bit tough for a 5.8, but still in the 5.8 difficulty range.

The anchors definitely seem to be rusting out, use caution. Jun 15, 2013
Crag Turkey
Liberty Wells, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This is my favorite route for the grade at Iron Curtain. Love the pins, especially how much people get sketched out by them and the anchors. How many pitons do you find that don't have a little rust on em? the anchors were solid as well as the pins. Jul 7, 2015
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This anchor is in terrible condition. I'll try to get to replacing this in May-June, but if someone gets to it before then, great! Apr 12, 2016
[Hide Comment] Anchor still in poor condition. Pitons and most other bolts solid. Rather an odd zigzagging bolting, and I wouldn't recommend toproping this on the far right side unless you enjoy pendulum swings. Wasn't really a fan, and I would say the rating is closer to a contemporary 5.9. Sep 11, 2018
Andy Weuling
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Anchor is in great condition now and bolts no longer spin, thank you to whoever fixed it! Climb itself isn't a very fun lead for the grade unless you love friction climbing, if you are looking for a good warm-up look at another climb. Route traverses a bit to avoid chossy lower section. Jan 12, 2021