To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Cranial Prophylactic
5.8,
Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.2 from 226
votes
FA: Miller and Smith '76
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Kermits Wall
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Cranial Prophylactic is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Look for a finger crack with a bolt about 15' up.
Fire up the crack, with a crux at the bolt. After this, the climbing eases and follows a crack system up and slightly left to a 3-bolt anchor. Many people rap from here, one rope rap.
If continuing up (I didn't), the route goes into a right facing dihedral with a pin. It continues up and eventually works left to a topout. Two rope rap or a one rope rap with downclimbing if this second pitch is done.
[Hide Photo] Taking advantage of a long granite season
[Hide Photo] View from across the river. Unknown climber.
[Hide Photo] Cough. Not quite as lame as the bolts on P2 of Losing My Religion, but pretty close. Also, right above the cam is a bomber pinch to wring-lock around.
[Hide Photo] cold...and it looks better then it is, but...it's still worth doing over and over
[Hide Comment] The bottom crack is really fun. About 20 feet. Nice 5.8 moves. After that it is a 5.5-6 swing to the anchors that goes up another 40 feet. But still fun and worth doing. Good lead to set up a top rope for the friction routes to the west.
Mar 17, 2005
[Hide Comment] There is a second pitch also rated 5.8 but with lesser quality rock, fun exposure and funky moves. The belay at the top is there but thin so be sure you equalize well. Not the standard 5.8 lead but worth doing once if you've done lots of laps on the lower pitch because it gets you more acquainted with the wall in general. Then you can walk around to the anchors of Paranoia Streak for the rappell. You can definitely reach the ground with a 70m rope.
Jul 16, 2006
[Hide Comment] The start is sporty and the crack can disappoint but I did enjoy the neat little step around move at 2/3 height. You know you are solid on trad if you can crank the start w/o the bolt!
Sep 3, 2007
[Hide Comment] Dave Smith climbed this in the 70's w/o the bolt. I asked him if he cared that the bolt was there, he seemed indifferent....
Oct 21, 2009
[Hide Comment] I give it a 5.7 just because I thought it was a little soft compared to other 5.8's i've done in the canyon. Still it's a clean short route. Finger size gear.
Oct 9, 2010
[Hide Comment] Climbed the second pitch today, and would recommend it. It had some fun moves, and good albeit spaced out gear. Walk all the way back to the gulley 80ft beyond the cliff edge then down to Paranoia Streak's anchors.
May 6, 2011
[Hide Comment] I encountered a small bat nesting in the crack about 6 feet off the ground. Was able to continue up without causing him or myself any harm but definitely be watchful of where you are jamming your fingers!
Jul 26, 2016
If you trend right towards the top you can do a diagonal traverse over mildly chossy rock and continue that direction to rap directly above the start of gordon's hangover, maybe about 10-15ft from the top out. Said traverse is a bit exposed but not too hard.
Mar 4, 2017
[Hide Comment] Great warm up! Easy to protect with lots of secure positions. Also a bolt to clip for the less confident trad leaders. I loved it and can't wait to take my young budding trad partners on it.
Sep 26, 2019
[Hide Comment] Definitely one of my favorites, worth giving a go. I don't like the bolt but it probably kept me form decking the first time i climbed the route. Never climbed second pitch though!
Mar 13, 2023
[Hide Comment] Second pitch is dirty and not that great when compared to the first pitch. If you do decide to do the second pitch, avoid using the fractured horn with a sling to belay/rap off. Top out left and belay off small tree and walk-off 4th class towards gully.
Jun 5, 2023
Avg: 2.2 from 226
votes
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Cottonwood Heights, UT
St George
PG, Utah
SLC, UT
Sandy, Utah
Bolt has been there longer than you've been alive...
Kim doesn't care. If you don't like it, don't clip it. Nov 30, 2011
Salt Lake City, UT
SLC
If you trend right towards the top you can do a diagonal traverse over mildly chossy rock and continue that direction to rap directly above the start of gordon's hangover, maybe about 10-15ft from the top out. Said traverse is a bit exposed but not too hard. Mar 4, 2017
Salt Lake City
Salt Lake
SLC
I don't like the bolt but it probably kept me form decking the first time i climbed the route.
Never climbed second pitch though! Mar 13, 2023
SLC, UT