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Schoolroom West
5.7,
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.6 from 240
votes
FA: unknown
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Schoolroom Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Schoolroom West is a great multi-pitch route on the left side of the Schoolroom Wall. This climb is more quality than the standard Schoolroom because it avoids the squeeze chimney and the long traverses. Climb it in 3 to 5 pitches. Breaking it into 3 pitches is most sensible.
P1) Scramble up the opening part of Schoolroom (easy 5th class) through possibly loose blocks. Traverse right to a tree at the base of a right facing dihedral (optional belay here). Continue up the dihedral to a large belay pod. Belay at a small tree with slings backed up with some gear.
P2) Climb a short section up a steep slick slab using a wide crack. Protection in the wide part would require a 4.5 camalot up higher (not necessary). Clip a fixed pin and wander up and slightly right through little bulges to a small tree (optional belay). Continue up through 2 or 3 more bulges with bomber hand jams to a large belay ledge with a tree.
P3) Climb the nice hand crack which is the last pitch of Schoolroom. Follow it until you can step left and traverse downward to the rappel tree. Another good option is to climb the Movie Variation crack just to the right. It is tricky for 5.8, but takes excellent pro.
Descent) Rap 80' from the top of P3 to a ledge. Traverse left a few feet to a set of chain anchors. Make a 100' rap down to the ground. A 60m rope is helpful, but some downclimbing could be done with a 50m rope.
Protection
Standard Rack, pro up to a #3 camalot, aliens are useful. Many runners/slings will help with rope drag if optional belays are skipped.
[Hide Photo] Schoolroom 5.6 II on the Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon
[Hide Photo] Schoolroom West Several of these pitches can be combined.
[Hide Photo] Topping out on this pitch.
[Hide Photo] Maura on the first pitch of Schoolroom West. A climber is on Schoolroom in the background.
Jackson, WY
This is a 3-star climb if the Movie Variation is used. Mar 20, 2004
St George
Olympic Valley, CA
Draper, UT
electric lady land
SLC, UT
SLC, UT
NV
PG, Utah
Salt Lake City, UT
The wide flare is only protectable by a large cam so bring your bigger stuff (#5 probably). I didn't and got sketched out trying to layback the edge of the crack. A fall without a cam in that flare means broken ankles. Oct 2, 2013
Salt Lake City, UT
1. Put a #4 Camalot in the wide portion of the flare and then back off to the scooped out area to the left of the flare, just a few feet above the belay.
2. Balance up on the two chickenheads to the left of the flare and you'll be able to reach the (manky) piton, clip it, then back down and climb the flare/layback with more confidence.
Fun climb, good placements for pro. Bring that #4 and six-eight alpine draws. Mar 21, 2016
Colorado Springs, CO
Liberty Wells, UT
Salt Lake City
SLC
There was a set of bolt anchors at the top of the third pitch to climbers left. We rapped off of those down to the anchors for Hatchet Crack. With 50 m half ropes we could make it to the base of Hatchet to cut off some of the walk we would have had with the proper schoolroom descent. May 4, 2018
Salt Lake City
Very reasonable with no rope drag if you use runners on P1 of the schoolroom. Best done in 2 pitches. Ground to bottom of offwidth, then to the schoolroom big belay tree. Fun climb that climbs a bit differently than regular schoolroom. Jun 13, 2019
Norwich, CT
SLC