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Roll the Bones

5.6, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2 from 272 votes
FA: Ray Dahl, Paul Hodges 1991
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Salt Lake Slips

Description

This is the right-most route on the main face of the Slips crag, visible from the road. Fun edge moves up a sloped quartzite face. There may be a queue to get on this route on nice weekend afternoons.

Protection

Six bolts to a double chain anchor at chest level above a very comfortable ledge. Well protected.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tosh Peters on Lead Photo: Rocky Maloney
[Hide Photo] Tosh Peters on Lead Photo: Rocky Maloney
The four popular moderate routes at the Salt Lake Slips (5.6-5.8)
[Hide Photo] The four popular moderate routes at the Salt Lake Slips (5.6-5.8)
Right before first bolt of Roll - easy to get to
[Hide Photo] Right before first bolt of Roll - easy to get to
Rising like smoke
[Hide Photo] Rising like smoke
Steps at base of rolling bones
[Hide Photo] Steps at base of rolling bones
Rocky Maloney on Top Rope<br>
Photo: Max Peters
[Hide Photo] Rocky Maloney on Top Rope Photo: Max Peters
My first lead climb.
[Hide Photo] My first lead climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Rated the same as Italian Arete (5.6), this one is more difficult and foot dependent. Thinner hand holds and plenty of edging. The diagonal crack 1/2 way up is helpful. Pre-clip the first draw for safety -- the bottom part of the route is slabby. Apr 16, 2004
Steve Jay
salt lake city, UT
  5.6
[Hide Comment] My first sport lead, definitely a heady first lead because of the edging and crimps great fun none the less Aug 14, 2006
Rebecca Airmet
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] This is a great place to take new leaders or new climbers because the falls are really clean. Great place to learn to use those feet! Aug 14, 2006
[Hide Comment] Completely different climbing than Italian Arete. Roll the bones is an easy face climb, with much smaller holds and different technique required (e.g. remembering where you just had your hands, since that will become your best foot placement).

Took my daughter (age 19) here for her third-ever climbing experience. We first climbed Italian Arete, then Roll the Bones. She found the route easier than Italian Arete, perhaps because it is less steep. Sep 3, 2006
Seth Reelitz
Utah
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Hanger on the 1st bolt wiggles a little bit, not quite spinning. Aug 15, 2013
Wic Wahlquist
Rio Rancho, New Mexico
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I completely agree with Rebecca Airmet! Good climb for beginners, good climb for relying on feet and for learning the value of a good crimp! I enjoyed this area and will go back again! May 4, 2014
[Hide Comment] 1st bolt is spinning. I'm willing to help switch it out, as I'd like to learn. I'm fairly available, too, being a wilderness therapy guide. Mar 9, 2015
[Hide Comment] Both my partner and I agree that this climb is more difficult than the Italian Arete and even Maudlin (5.7). It's much thinner than those two, but good fun! Nov 9, 2016
[Hide Comment] 5.8 is more realistic May 23, 2019
Mike Zappe
Lehi, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Bottom half is more technical climbing using feet edging and moderate crimps. No jugs on this lower portion. While the holds are there, walking up and onsighting feels much harder than a 5.6, more like 5.8. The top half is easier, the holds and feet are much larger. First bolt is pretty high, easy if careful. Use a stick if unsure. Bolt spacing on the entire route are a little strung out. Falls are manageable, slabby but not cheese grater. Wouldn’t recommend for a first time, first onsight lead. Bolts are all new glue ins. Jun 6, 2019
[Hide Comment] Super fun sport lead. I agree with others that it climbs harder than 5.6. Mostly because of the more technical lower section. For a beginner lead climber, pre-clip the first bolt to take some of the stress out of it. Climbed 4/20 and all the bolts are in good shape. Newer bomber glue in bolts. Apr 7, 2020
Caleb Perkins
Sandy, UT
  5.7
[Hide Comment] It appears a second pitch has been bolted directly about the anchors on the ledge. Climbed on 4/5/21 and got on the second pitch thinking it was double tap, then we realized the bolts for double tap are farther right and I know it’s not the second pitch of the Italian arete (I’ve done that and it’s farther to the left and only has 2 bolts to a two bolt anchor). The only thing this appears it could be based on mountain project is a second, dirty, 5.5ish pitch to roll the bones. Had 6 bolts or so to a double bolt chain anchor. Great intro multi pitch for newbies. Apr 5, 2021
John Dunn
Jeffersonville, VT
[Hide Comment] Edgy and thin for a 5.6. Great route but would call it 5.7 Aug 7, 2022
Dylan Day
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] Ok….. 5.6??? No 5.8. And all of 5.8. Every 5.7 on this wall is easier then this one. Way harder then Italian. Still fun just bring your slab head with you as there is some tricky feet if you just a 5.6 leader. So fun tho:) Sep 16, 2022
Mike Larson
Salt Lake City
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Haha, not a 5.6. Every 5.7 on this is wall is easier than this... so this is either 5.7 or dare I say 5.8? Let's meet in the middle with a 5.7+

I wouldn't recommend this to a first timer - the holds are thin and you really gotta crimp/take time to figure out placement. A true 5.6 i'd suggest you take a beginner is "whipper" in Ledgemere Logs Oct 20, 2022