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Isotoner Moaner

5.12b, Sport,  Avg: 3.6 from 163 votes
FA: Bill Boyle
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Division Wall
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

A bit right of the northwest corner of Division, off a small ledge is a line that runs up a slightly overhangin, narrow face to a small roof near the anchor.

Isotoner Moaner ascends the clean face on thin edges and an occasional rough pocket. While there is a short 5.12 sequence near the middle, most of the climbing is very continuous middle to upper 5.11. Isotoner is a fine line that probably took considerable cleaning to arrive in its present state.

Protection

11 bolts to chains. Shares the chains with Secret Weapon.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown climber making the final moves on a true AF classic, Isotoner Moaner 5.12b
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber making the final moves on a true AF classic, Isotoner Moaner 5.12b

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

d-know
electric lady land
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Peronally this is my favorite route at division. The start has some choss but the rest makes up for it. I think it's the longest route at division. Jan 28, 2006
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I don't know why I waited so long to try this one, but it is an awesome climb. If you are confused trying to find the route, make sure you reference the list of climbs in the comments section here on MP for Division Wall. There are a couple of climbs that aren't in the book, and this one is the long one just to the left of the major crack to the left of Rush Hour.

I didn't experience any choss, so hopefully it stays this clean. The middle section is very exciting--get your fingers ready for some classic AF pocket moves. Jun 22, 2012
Kip H
Farmington, utah
 
[Hide Comment] What an amazing climb. Easy going to an obvious 2 bolt crux in the middle. The left foot is always searching for some traction. Balancy, exposed, and tricky climbing. Superb! After that you get a rest then the pay off is the black solid rock to the top. Sweet moves up and over a small roof to the chains. Sit and enjoy the view and breathe life in. Oct 11, 2012
Leify Guy
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] 12a/b? this thing felt full on 12b to me for sure, much harder for me than liquid oxygen and many other 12a's in the area... solid 12b if you ask me Jun 7, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction
 
[Hide Comment] No moaning on this one. Some grunting maybe, but no moaning. Very quality climbing. Every sport climb should have a mantle to finish it off! Jun 15, 2014
Past User
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] At the third bolt of Isotoner Moaner (nearly 50 ft up!) a pointless squeezed link up branches left. The three bolt variation links above into Secret Weapon (12b) and finishes at the Isotoner Moaner chains. The bolts are within arms reach from Isotoner Moaner (what a pity) and the rock isn't really that good... Its called Division Bell(12c) and imo is best skipped. Climb Secret Weapon instead! Aug 7, 2014
Where's Walden
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Super quality. Rating feels height dependent. Nov 26, 2017
Ryan Arnold
SLC
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] So many stars. Best route on the wall, and one of the best in AF.

At 5'9" I also found the crux to be height dependent -- not sure how this route would work out for someone 5'5" or below! If you need crux beta for medium to short people, shoot me a PM. Took me some headscratching to find a workable sequence. Aug 30, 2018
Steve Miller
West Jordan
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Really great route! The crux reminds me of trying to put in the correct cheat code on contra for 30 extra lives on the normal Nintendo. up down up down L R LR select start..
From underclings..
High left pocket, step up high right, right finger crack with blood around it, right drop knee, high right pinch, left good sidepull/ pinch, right secret foot..... etc
The crux is techy but not too powerful. Climbing doesn't let up with 5.11 climbing above and a chance to blow the redpoint by slipping off the last move.
1 of the best 12b anywhere! May 22, 2020
Matt VanBuhler
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Be careful at the chains. Do your best to not swing off and into into the rock face that is just left of and below them.

I lazily stepped off the final mantle ledge, swinging into that area of rock and several fist sized pieces crumbled and fell off down very close to my belayer. Might be worth finding/asking an experienced route setter to clean this area before a microwave sized piece drops off unexpectedly. Mar 26, 2022
Benjamin Werbner
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Heads up: A very large (mini-fridge size) block fell off the left side of the ledge between Secret Weapon (just after pulling out of the corner and onto the face) and Isotoner Moaner about 30' off the ground and landed near the base of Isotoner. The block was accidentally dislodged with minimal pressure while lowering from the chains, and the area it fell from likely has more unstable rock that will coming down soon. Be cautious belaying for Isotoner, and lowering over this area from either route. Luckily no one was hurt, but it was a very close call. Aug 28, 2022