Type: Sport
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 3,742 total · 20/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 23, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


76 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Just left of License To Thrill is a stiff problem that fires up to the left side of a roof. Route 66 has pumpy, fingery climbing on small pockets and edges. Crux was a bit below the roof and needed good contact strength - seems like you are always on your arms. The roof sequence is described as bizarre in the Ruckman/Ruckman guide. Tricky yes, with an overhead bolt to start, but it runs out once you stand up over the roof. Definitely worth a burn.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

richard magill
  5.12a
richard magill  
  5.12a
Awesome route - tricky finish. Aug 13, 2004
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.12a
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.12a
This has become one of my favs in AF. This climb has 2 distinct sections. The lower overhanging part gets the arms burning with hard moves in between good holds, the footwork (if you can find any feet) is the real puzzler. The lower part crux is at the 4th bolt. After you get past the pump on the lower half you are rewarded with a no hands rest. The upper half crux is getting past the large roof (i wont tell you how, you get to figure it out). Then you get to a jug and move left to some crimpers. This part is tricky because they are hard to see with some sloping feet. You finish it out on a couple of great jugs.

This climb is well protected except when you place the draw at the big roof. Go up left on jugs and clip it with a long draw with a locking biner at the bolt. The angle on this draw on a fall tends to open up gates.

The top chains have been replaced with mussy hooks for easy lowering. Its a great climb. Aug 19, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Anchor is chains again; no more mussy hooks.

(So don't forget two draws for the chains, like I did.) Jul 10, 2010
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
Two for two...second set of mussy hooks I put in AF Cyn, second set kifed. Jul 11, 2010
Just sent this route today. Their are draws at the top for lowering as of today. Having climbed this route multiple times, I think that the best aspect of this route is that there are many different betas to the cruxes. Aug 25, 2011
Captain Crusher
Salt Lake City
Captain Crusher   Salt Lake City
Bail biners at the anchors are severely worn. I would recommend not using them. May 9, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
An t-rex wingspan will have you dynoing sideways between jugs to pull the roof. The no hands rest detracts from the overall quality, but still fun. May 3, 2015
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
SW- avoid your paleo curse by climbing down and right from the giant roof jug, and then tackling the overhang more or less straight on;) May 3, 2015
lech
  5.12a
lech  
  5.12a
When I did this route one of the bolts was old small and lose. It was right where the route curves in and gets easy but still scary. Don't assume all the bots will hold. Climb this with care. Feb 24, 2016
apross  
Bolts were replaced a few years ago, feel free to fall all you want. Feb 25, 2016
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
 
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
 
I replaced the bolt Lech was talking about a little over a year ago, new one is a stainless hilti kb3. Nov 21, 2016
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
A 3 star route to a 1 star finish Jun 20, 2017
A stellar route, the finish is a bit finicky, I simply went the hard way which was really burly but also really cool, but I think the easier way is to go back down after clipping and to the right. Anywho, a real classic. Jul 17, 2018