Type: Sport
FA: Scott Unice, Bill Boyle
Page Views: 6,916 total · 37/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 23, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


236 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A near-classic warmup. Worth doing and not overly bolted; the pump factor can make it seem a number grade harder. Just stay on your feet and make the big reaches.

At the third bolt trend right. Directly above (or maybe slightly left) the third bolt there is a newer bolt that makes a one-bolt linkup with  Drop ZoneIf you find yourself crossing the arete to the left you've gone the wrong way.

Protection

Seven or eight draws and a rope.

Location

The left-most line in the curving, steep, "alcove" before an outside corner and less steep terrain.

Photos

Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Pumpy and polished definitely made this feel harder than .10a. Very fun with lots of big jugs, not to be missed. Oct 15, 2004
Alec LaLonde
  5.10a
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10a
The most polished climb I've been on in AF -- and that's saying a lot -- otherwise I'd give it four stars. Fun, steep jug haul all the way to the anchors. Jul 14, 2008
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
 
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
 
I didn't feel this climb was too polished. The grade seemed very fair. Fun and very juggy! Some large reaches off some bomber holds. Very fun. It's a miniture license to thrill. A must do for a 5.10 climber! Jul 26, 2009
Andrew Seegmiller
Orem UT
 
Andrew Seegmiller   Orem UT
 
I also felt like this was a very polished climb up until about the fourth bolt, after that it all felt pretty good to me. but the first part of the jug line is miserably polished which makes it feel alot harder then a 10a. I'd give the first part something like a 10d

Take a brush and clean holds when your on this climb and it may get better Jan 2, 2010
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
 
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
 
This route obviously sees tons of traffic. I give it two stars because the holds are big and fun, but no more. As fun as the moves were, I couldn't enjoy the route that much because the footholds are polished black with rubber and the hands are completely coated in congealed chalk. Even for AF this route is super polished. Sep 6, 2010
Buffalo James
American Fork, UT
Buffalo James   American Fork, UT
great 5.10a, quite polished, and make sure to have your footing from the last bolt to chains, i've had a couple buddies slip off that flake at the top and take a good fall. Great climb. Aug 9, 2011
John Brown  
 
Fun route- the crux is a tongue twister only a few feet up and slopey. Has good feet the whole way up. Jul 19, 2017