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Desire
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3.7 from 26
votes
Routes in Nurd Rock
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Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Great Expectations T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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If At First T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Keepin' It Wreel Gneiss T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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W.R.E.E.L. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| GPS: | 32.36627, -110.71518 |
| FA: | Steiger and Jurashek; 1984 |
| Page Views: | 3,069 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | eMurdock on Feb 8, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Desire is a classic Lemmon route. The route follows the face and arete of the middle of Nurd Rock. With a 60 meter rope, it should be done as one pitch. Someone replaced the bolts with solid ones and placed two bolts at the mid-belay (which does not need to be used). The route used to have a gear belay there before 60 meter ropes were standard.
This route has it all. Delicate, slabby face climbing gets you started. The first bolt is high. A couple pieces of pro and you are climbing steep, rounded holds up a striking arete to a ledge. Then steep climbing out left takes you up the final headwall into a dihedral to the finish. The pin above the two bolt belay has been replaced with a good bolt.
Falling at certain spots on this climb is out of the question although a couple 40 footers have been logged and legend has it that a certain prolific Tucson climber botched the first clip and took the grounder.
14 Comments