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Routes in Forehand Wall

Little Meteor Shower S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Meteor Shower S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scorpion King S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Kanoza / Andy Peter
Page Views: 2,086 total · 13/month
Shared By: Steve Kanoza on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

A long sport route with a crux at both the beginning and the end.

Protection

This is a sport route with rap anchors at the top of the first pitch, and chains at the top of the second.
Jimbo  
Um... route description does say "sport route". Mar 19, 2014
Kyle O
Tucson, AZ
Kyle O   Tucson, AZ
Someone added 2 new bolts next to the crack that takes great gear. Mar 18, 2014
Steve Kanoza  
 
Replaced the missing hanger that someone took. Feb 4, 2014
Tomily ma
  5.9+
Tomily ma  
  5.9+
This is a very fun route. Engaging start and awesome finish. Slab in between is some of the best slab I've climbed. You can barely link both pitches with an 80m rope. Long draws minimize drag but picking up 40m of rope on the final roof crux is a challenge in itself. We had to unclip everything to lower to dirt. Oct 22, 2013
Adam Block
Tucson, AZ
5.9+
Adam Block   Tucson, AZ
5.9+
Just an FYI there is no first bolt (well, the bolts there, no hanger) on this climb anymore. I personally think that makes sense as there's a crack that will swallow up gear right there and the crux is protected by a bolt. Just be aware that what is now the "first" clip is a slight runout and you may want to bring some gear if you want to protect it. Mar 8, 2013
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.9+
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.9+
The bolt is still there, just missing its hanger. Obviously the start protects well with gear, however since the bolt it already there it may as well have a hanger on it as you should have either the hanger-less bolt or a piece of gear clipped as the crack and 1st bulge are the crux. Also the little horn-thing you use to surmount the bulge directly above the crack snapped in my hand and is wiggling. I forgot to try and kick it off on my way down but it made an audible snap and is now loose. Be Safe, Have Fun! Feb 28, 2013
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
 
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
 
Looked at route again today, my bad, bolt not chopped, just missing hanger. Dec 30, 2011
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
Cool Myk added mussy hooks. Thanks Myk for the update. Dec 28, 2011
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
 
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
 
Not only is the first bolt missing a hanger, but I think it has been chopped, so pretty spicy getting to new first bolt without a piece in. Dec 28, 2011
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
@Myk, there is a bolt left of the crack, missing a hanger Dec 27, 2011
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
 
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
 
Fun climb. PG 13 to first bolt unless you place a piece of gear. Added Mussy hooks to anchors at top of first pitch. Dec 18, 2011
Great climb. It diffidently not a 5.10a. Even if you lead it in one pitch. Just like Lemmon. Everything is a soft rating. This is more like 5.8+ May 15, 2010
Derek Anderson
Tucson,AZ
 
Derek Anderson   Tucson,AZ
 
I climbed this today and it had all its pro! Great climb, I mean beautiful route! The roof is great fun on the second pitch! Thanks guys for bolting this one. Dec 21, 2009
I climbed this today from the ground up, the second pitch is extremely fun and the roof move at 150 ft makes things interesting + the fact your belay man is out of sight to say the least. I also am one who dislikes raggin on ratings and would keep this what it was fa-ed at, and that is a .10a if you thinks its less take a stab at it as one single pitch of 150 like its supposed to be climbed. Nov 19, 2009
John Hannah
Tucson
  5.9+
John Hannah   Tucson
  5.9+
This route is well protected - excellent bolt placement and some fun climbing on the first 30-40 feet. Gets much easier up top. Apr 12, 2009
Mike Dudley
Vegas
Mike Dudley   Vegas
Climbed this today along with the pitch above. The second pitch is easy 5.8 climbing until the roof. The roof is really well protected however I feel like it is above the rating. Using the 10a roof on Hitchcock, I would call this around the same about 10a/10b. If you have the chance climb the second pitch, its a blast! Dec 17, 2008
Andrew Ryder
Arizony
  5.9+
Andrew Ryder   Arizony
  5.9+
Avoid this climb after a heavy rainstorm. We got to the base of this route shortly after the floods in summer '06 and found a wet, slimy, ant-filled crack. Yuck! Mar 4, 2007
The start of this route has changed significantly. There used to be a big block right of the crack. I distinctly remember grabbing that block and climbing up onto it to clip the second bolt. That block is now sitting on the ground 10 feet from the base -- I am sure glad that didn't happen while I was standing on it! I do like the start of the route much better now. Jan 19, 2007
bw1
bw1  
i want to reiterate the thanks that andy gives out for those who run these sites. the information provided by everyone involved creates a setting for our endless thoughts of being out on a new route, working a problem, gathering beta, or just plain ole discussion. keep up the good work! Jan 10, 2006
Just wanted to add to the previous comment I posted. When Friends and I put up climbs, we know as the first ascentionists that all the hardware used on these climbs become the climbing communities property when were done. I was informed that their are certain people that will strip hareware off climbs for their own use at times. I sure hope that this doesn't become a regular occurrence. One more thing, and I'll be done. Just wanted to say "Thank You" to the folks that keep the" Tucson Climbers website" up and running, I feel it is a great asset to any climbing community to have an invaluable source of information! Jan 9, 2006
Someone had asked me today why the top of the 1st pitch had only 1 quiklink and chain. It was obvious that someone had removed one of the pair.This is not only stealing from the first ascentist, but is more of a safety hazard to a beginner climber that may think its ok to lower from the remaining chain. The 1st pitch anchors now only have Metolius Rap Anchors! Thanks to the person who decided to modify my anchors!!! Jan 7, 2006
Don Laury
  5.9
Don Laury  
  5.9
Has a nice interesting 5.9 start at the crack, and a couple good moves after, then gets 5.5 slab after the 4th bolt all the way to the anchors. I didn't do the second pitch. The "project" about 5 yards to the right of this appears to be complete now. It had about a 5.8+ start (thin slab moves, not crack), some sharp crimpers, then turns slabby 5.6 soon after 2nd bolt, goes to same anchors as Meteor shower. We were taking a new climber for his first time outside, and I thought these were some good climbs for that, especially with the first pitch of Scorpion King around the corner for a warm-up. Jan 5, 2006

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