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Makin Muffins

5.7, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 71 votes
FA: Eden Masters, Scott Ayers 1991
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 4 - Windy Point… > Swim Fin

Description

Look for a pair of bolted lines on the left side of a chimney on the Blazing Fin. Makin Muffins is the right hand line. Stick to the right and follow the bolts to the chains. Fun route with interesting moves.

Protection

bolts (approx 7 or 8) and chain anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tom Black made delicious muffins!
[Hide Photo] Tom Black made delicious muffins!
Right side of the rope is on the route.
[Hide Photo] Right side of the rope is on the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I wouldn't call it 5.8, but this is at the upper end of 5.7. It's a long way to the first bolt and a long way down Willow Canyon if you roll off the cliff. Jun 5, 2006
joshf
missoula, mt
 
[Hide Comment] I think this route is actually pretty fun. Great moderate slab climbing. The first bolt is on very solid terrain i would say. Mar 2, 2008
[Hide Comment] The first bolt is a good 20 feet up. While the climb is only 5.7, if you don't make it to the first bolt you're looking at a pretty nasty ground fall and tumble down the mountain. While I'm not an advocate of overbolting, it doesn't make much sense to put up a 5.7 sport route that you have to solo the first 20 feet of. Maybe I should have brought a stick clip, but a bolt at 10-15 feet would make more sense to me. May 13, 2009
Cody M
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] I agree with David - high first bolt and iffy moves just below and above it. Freaked me out a bit. Jan 23, 2011
Andrew Nelson
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] If you are a 5.7 climber you will probably be a bit freaked out by the two run outs on this route. The obvious, and most dangerous one, is at the bottom before your first bolt. The second (that I remember) is up top getting to the anchors. Both are on easy ground, but not necessarily something a 5.7 leader would want to encounter... May 5, 2014
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] I think this is a pretty great little route. This would be a good way to warm your head up for climbing in Cochise or Joshua tree - tricky, technical low-angle moves with a few spicy sections (up to the first bolt and near the top). If you start to the left of the initial bulge, standing on a rock, the mantle moves to the first bolt are 5.7PG (don't fall, it would suck). Aug 21, 2016
Tom Black
  5.7+ R
[Hide Comment] Cool area and easy approach. There's a path between some rocks on the left just before the large slab area (swim fin west side). First bolt is very high, bring a stick clip if you have it. I thought this was definitely a "harder" 5.7 sport climb. Watch out for a pendulum swing way left especially on lower. Oct 2, 2022
Arsh Nadkarni
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Definitely on the higher end of 5.7s with a feel for off-width climbing! There are actually spots where jamming helps a lot. No community mussy hooks at the top so get ready to clean the old-fashioned way through the chains. Very high first bolt and a stick-clip will definitely come in handy here. Oct 2, 2022
jack m
  5.8 R
[Hide Comment] I thought only the first bolt would be runout, but there are some huge runouts above as well. Wouldn't recommend someone to lead it unless they are really solid on slabby 5.7. Arsh, are you confusing with a different climb? I didn't see anything resembling an off-width. There are carabiners at the top for lowering. Jun 11, 2023