Ego Donor

This is not a particularly difficult 5.9 and it is definitely one that a climber could push their limits on. There are good bolts every couple feet at the start. Overall, there are not many 5.9s on the mountain this safe. Sep 29, 2004

It's definitely safely bolted, so I think anyone who wants to give it a try should. You can always back off.

But I honestly thought this was one of the most sustained 5.9 sport routes I'd ever done when I first moved here and did it. It's great, and it really is a 5.9. but almost every move is 5.9, IMHO. Sep 30, 2004

I agree with Forest...5.9+ Oct 3, 2004

bottom links of chains are 30 - 40 percent worn. Sep 9, 2005

This route often gets the reputation for being a bit sandbagged at 5.9, but I believe it is more the fact that the route is sustained. There is some potential for a nasty fall if the climbers were to blow it pulling up onto the ledge halfway up or clipping the bolt there after.
I really enjoy this climb and think it is one of the better 5.9 sport routes at Windy Point. Apr 8, 2006

I agree, it doesn't have any rediculously hard moves, but is really sustained and pumpy for 5.9.

I thought the chains up top looked a bit nasty, probably have years left, but the left connector link is bent and both look slightly thin where attached to the hanger. The lower link showed some wear, but not too bad. The connector links should be replaced with quicklink screw ons. Nov 18, 2007

There is most assuredly a runout with decker potential in this route. Mar 2, 2008

I've only recently started working on 9's in the gym and I did this climb on TR without ever weighing the rope. As far as the moves go I wouldn't rate it higher than a 9+. It was very pumpy but halfway up you have a great ledge that you can hang out on and shake your arms out. Oct 31, 2008

can we discard this silly notion of a "5.9 move"? if route A has 10 moves as hard as the distinct crux section on an established 5.9 route B which has only a single move of that difficulty, then route A is harder than 5.9.

like this climb. Dec 11, 2009

I agree with Don Buland. When he says it is so, it is so! Dec 12, 2009

This route is fun. It pushes me and I'm definitely going to come back and do it again. Mar 30, 2011

The connector link on the left anchor is rusty and bent halfway open. Looks a little unsafe to me. Both connector links should be checked and probably replaced with quick links by someone who knows more about anchors. Sep 4, 2013

Super fun route. I would definitely say the crux is down low (to bolts 2 and 3), but watching your feet will take you through the crux. May 5, 2014

ditto the description about being solid in the grad. Though well bolted it is pumpy and potentially awkward during the first half of the climb. Things ease up after the ledge 1/2 way. Appears the left connector link at the chains is in the same condition Skatman described 2.5 years ago Dec 3, 2016

Okay Kids, how about taking some responsibility for your climbing areas. Instead of pointing out climbs with issues how about we educate ourselves and fix things when you find them or go back and fix them next weekend or next day. Check out school of rock on this site to figure out if something needs to be fixed. I thank you in advance for getting involved in the stewardship of our areas. Dec 5, 2016

Yeah the anchor does not look good because of the link pulling apart, I did not hesitate to rap on it though. Probably need bolt cutters or cordless grinder to remove.

Apr 9, 2017