Type: Sport, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Doug Lantz, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Diane Vetter
Page Views: 1,775 total · 10/month
Shared By: Vincent Greene on Jul 3, 2004
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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Look for a bolted route just to the right of a large obvious roof. Pitch 1: The first bolt is pretty far up on easy climbing. Follow the bolts moving left or right (mostly) for the best holds. The crux is between the last bolt and the chains, and is well protected by the bolt. Someone else will need to fill in details on pitch 2.


Bolts and chains


Wes Turner
az / pa
Wes Turner   az / pa
I really thought this route was fun albeit short. curx is the last move up onto slabby face before anchors.. Jul 9, 2004
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
Fun climbing, if short. I believe the second pitch is actually pitch 2 of the 5.11 gear climb that stars left of Jack. It was hard to tell this from the guidebook at first. My impression from the description is that the second pitch is still 5.11, but it is bolted. Getting both to the roof and then over it certainly looks harder than 5.9, although the climbing above looks easier. Jun 23, 2006
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Hey Scott, it is confusing. In SQ II #4 The Pagan climbs past the anchors of #5 Jack The Slipper and turns the roof at a hard to reach bolt (if you are under 5'6"). After turning the roof angle left away from bolt line to set up a belay. The Jack the Roofer Variation moves left below ...Slipper's anchors and turns the roof and clips it's own set of anchors. From here you can lower off or if you have gear continue to the top via Pneumatic Bliss or the upper pitch of The Pagan. Hope this helps those who are not in radio contact with me. Jun 24, 2006
Ryan Clark
Tucson, AZ
Ryan Clark   Tucson, AZ
The first bolt on the second pitch is really loose and sticks out of the wall a fair bit. If you blow the roof move this is the bolt you'll be falling on. Scared me away from the second pitch... Jul 4, 2007
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
only 90 feet. does anyone who has climbed the route see any problems with doing this route as one pitch? Nov 4, 2007
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Jack the Slipper to Pagan Direct 5.11 variation: 1st bolt past Jack anchors is indeed sketchy looking. You can (just barely) get down with a 60m. There are no rap anchors or chains at top, there are regular bolts + webbing + biners up there, you may want to bring webbing+knife to replace/back up part of the anchor, unless you plan on topping out. Very sharp rock at the roof, if toproping you probably want to extend the bolt at the roof and you probably don't want to take too many sideways falls.

Jack the Roofer 5.11 variation: Not really worth doing and probably significantly harder than 11b (holds may have come off). Some hollow blocks under roof. You can aid past the harder part but it's also fairly easy to just clean your draw and traverse back to Jack the Slipper anchors. May 24, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
This site and the guide say that this is a two pitch 5.9 with total of 90 feet. The second pitch is much harder and its first bolt is mank with very burly thin stuff over the bolt. Not sure there is not a typo but the second 5.9 pitch is missing or mis-rated. Apr 8, 2013
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Mislabeled as two pitches on here, see "Paganizer" route here for description of what you did. Apr 8, 2013