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Routes in Rollinstone

??? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Airgasm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Areole S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Astro-Knot ! S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bi-Polar Opposites T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crazy Eight S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falsie S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feminine Hygiene T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fingerling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Anxiety T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just A Sideline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Max's Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
More Than A Handful S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rollin With The Punches S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Star Search S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Human Tricks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trust Your Paws T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Steiger,Fowler; 1982
Page Views: 1,404 total · 8/month
Shared By: eMurdock on May 24, 2004
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This route is not really on the Lost Hawk Pinnacle, but is right across on the Rollingstone. If doing the routes on Lost Hawk, this a good way to round out the day. Airgasm starts in a tricky seam/crack to the left (about 20') of the bolted route Stupid Human Tricks. Climb the seam and trend right into a right facing dihedral. Good pro lead through a large roof. I think a 4 Camalot protected the lip encounter (although it may have been a 3). Continue up easier rock and finish at the SHT two bolt anchor/lower off. The roof moves are exceptional and the start adds a little spice. Certainly worth doing if in the mood for an airgasm. Faces south. Should be given stars in the guidebook.

Protection

Good selection to 4"

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
It will have a star in the next book. I had never done it because it didn't get them in Stieger's book. It is unusual and fun and it deserves at least one. Mar 30, 2006
I just need to say that this is one of the greatest route names ever. Oct 12, 2008
Chris Prewitt
  5.10b
Chris Prewitt  
  5.10b
Thanks for posting this route. I probably wouldn't have gotten on it going off the guidebook. Not like most of the gear routes on the mountain. Jan 1, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10
a cool route. very intimidating to lead. i came away with scratches and scrapes on my upper arms after thrashing around and nearly blowing the flash. this is definitely a unique route.

watch for rope drag after pulling the roof. continue up through the chimney and build an anchor on top. the rock is crappy and the gear sparse after the roof, so be careful. Feb 6, 2009
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
 
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
 
One of the first routes I did after moving here, tho I certainly didn't get it clean. Great fun, and a bit intimidating. Feb 6, 2009
Mike Dudley
Vegas
  5.10
Mike Dudley   Vegas
  5.10
The description says shitty 2 boult anchor but I saw no such anchor and just built a trad anchor, not saying they are not there but I didnt see them. Sad that the top half was not as amazing as the bottom, I thought the roof itself was amazing and fun. Jun 13, 2010
eMurdock
Tucson, Arizona
  5.10
eMurdock   Tucson, Arizona
  5.10
Mike, the description does not say shitty anchor. It says to clip the anchors on Stupid Human Tricks (SHT). They are there. Jun 14, 2010
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
 
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
 
I recommend building a belay station in the gully to belay up the second. Then climbing to the anchors on SHT and moving the anchor. The rope drag from the gully to the anchors on SHT is insane. It is worth the extra work to belay the second up inline with the route. Fun roof which goes well once you figure out the moves. A #4 BD Cam protects the edge move well. Apr 5, 2013
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10
this would probably be a 3-star route (because of its uniqueness) if there was a fixed anchor on the ledgy section just above the roof. as it stands, having done this route i don't expect to do it again since you have to keep climbing for 50 feet over shitty rock with terrible rope drag to set up a gear anchor at the top, belay your partner up, then walk off.

i volunteer my assistance if anyone wants to add an anchor to this climb. Jan 12, 2015
Adrian Montano
Tucson, AZ
Adrian Montano   Tucson, AZ
Can the roof be protected with a 3 or do I need a 4? Apr 11, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
The climb is all of 5 minutes off the road Adrian. Take both! Apr 11, 2017

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